Anyone do there own alignments?

Around me there is only one shop that can put my dually on their rack to do an alignment, and they are kinda jackasses. I am looking for an alternative and ran across this camber/caster gauge. I would like to be able to do my own alignment as I can make changes whenever I want if I change something. The last time I had it aligned at a shop, I still had to change it as my tires wouldn't clear my fenders. So I threw that 50 bucks out the door. I need new front tires as mine are worn real bad from the alignment being off.



Any ideas would be great

We used to do our own until a friend of our here in town got a machine that would align vehicles with wheels over 20s on them.
We just used some string, a tape measure, and an angle finder or pinion gauge for the camber.

what did you do about caster? or doesn't it matter so much for us?

there are a lot of websites that tell you how to do it, I dont remember the one I used but I was able to do it in my driveway and it was just fine

Most trucks are not very sensitive to having the correct caster degree especially on a vehicle with airride because it is always going to change slightly depending on the height of your sir system.

I have eyeballed my alignments before, but ususally take it to a shop. I'm lucky enough here to have a shop that does all trucks, including semi's, so they got the nod for my alignment.

Good suggestions on camber measurements above, and toe as well, but it can be a little difficult with a dually to use the string method. I know that alignments can be done mobily, cause there used to be a guy that would come out to the shop and align any car with a jack and a set of tools similar to what you are talking about.

Also, like lockone said, caster is not that big of a deal unless it is extreme. The most important thing about caster is that it HAS to be positive (top of the spindle further back, or pointed back, than the lower ball joint). Positive caster enhances straight line stability, and also provides beneficial camber changes in the turns.

If I am not correct, when you change camber, doesn't it change the caster as well? I know it changes the toe. So it seems like an endless project, get the camber set, adjust for caster, readjust camber, etc. I think I am just going to get the truck as level as possible, use my pinion gauge to set camber, then adjust the toe using a straight edge across the wheels on both sides and adjust till the front side is just a cunt hair narrower than the rear side of the tires. How does this sound? I want to get it as close as possible at ride height, so at least most of the time it is close, but when I am driving it slammed it will be off anyways and I think that is where I am getting most of my tire wear, as the toe gets pretty bad when layed out. Not that it is extreme but noticable with the naked eye.

Any other ideas?

Toe is the most important factor concerning tire wear. Negative camber does not chew up tires ... negative camber with excessive toe will definitely eat em up. It sounds like you got the right idea on setting up your toe. Generally, if you have no way to set it up, or measure it, as close to neutral is the best. The toe setting can really depend on what you want the vehicle to do. Slight toe in will increase straight line stability, but decrease turning ability and responsiveness. Slight toe out will decrease straight line stability, but increase the amount of turn in response. Also keep in mind that if the toe is set to absolutely neutral in a static setting, that once one of our heavy trucks with rubber bushings starts to roll out, the toe will become slightly out anyway.

Caster doesnt have to necessarily change with camber, but with our trucks and the swing direction of the control arms, yes caster does change with suspension swing and camber changes ... it is just the way the suspension was designed from GM.

As long as you align it the way you want it to be at your ride height (or close), you will be fine.

thanks, thats the answer I was looking for, I am going to set the toe as close to straight as I can and try to get the camber as close as I can without rubbing the fenders.