widened VS narrowed control arms on a bagged square

Some people narrow the control arms and keep the DRW rotors.

Then some people run the SRW 1-ton rotors and lengthen the control arms.

Both methods pull the front wheels in, but what makes one way better than the other? Does lengthening the arms give better geometry or something? Tie rod adjustment? Gotta be more to it than cheaper brake rotors.

If I'm over-thinking the shit it wouldn't be the first time.

I think I remember reading on here that SRW rotors and lengthening the control arms give more lift. I would think a shorter arm is stronger though.

Ive only built sets for the 88-98, in both the 3/4 ton and 1 ton hubs, so i can only say on those two what the differences would be, but to be honest, the theory would apply to the square body as well.

Longer arms with the 3/4 ton hubs will give you a bit more lift in the long run. But to be honest, it wont be a bunch, probably a couple inches at most.

Either way, as long as you use the right materials, you wont have to worry at all about any strength issues at all.

I just finished building two sets of dually arms, One set for 3/4 ton hubs and one set for the standard 1 ton hubs. In the long run the guy with the longer arms and 3/4 ton hubs did get more lift, and to be honest, i think the arms look a lot nicer when they are that extra bit in legnth.



Taylor

I can see how it would give a little more lift.

Read some posts about people running out of adjustment on the tie rod ends with narrowed arms. No idea how much the arms would have to be cut to cause that problem.

Im not sure as well... I know the set that i made for the 88-98 running the 1 ton dually spindle up front had to be narrowed 1.875", to keep it in far enough to tuck like he wanted to.

But to be honest, so far, i have just produced a steering kit with every set of arms ive sold for the dually trucks, its been easier on my end to just go about it that way. I will probably just include it on every arm kit i sell for these trucks from now on.



Taylor

So for my 1ton, I can basically order a set of arms from you for 3/4ton hubs to pull my wheels in & still use my 1ton drop spindles I have now? I like the idea of cheaper hubs & the fact you can get 3/4 ton rotors cross-drilled. Can you send me a price for a set like your making D/A..?

I've never asked TWT this but can't they make adapters for the front that have the extra width built into them instead of lengthening the arms when using SRW hubs?

We can do this but they do cost a bit more. So you can weight your $$$ options on having some arms made or having the adapters made.

How about a thicker adapter to push the rear wheels out on cab/chassis axle swaps? The C&C axle is a good idea but it pulls the rear wheels in too far.

the dually hub and wheelcombo brings the balljoints and the steering closer to the center of the tirepatch touching the ground
it should gives less tirewear and stress to the balljoints and other moving stuff like trackrods under braking and steering (on stock rims that is , you might get better results with the srw hub and semi truckrims if these rims are slightly more a lot more shallow than the stock 17s when used in combination with the 8 to 10 lug adapters)
the shorter arms might cause the tire to rub against the frame and the arms faster in turns .... not sure