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Dually Suspension \  Which rear link setup??

Which rear link setup??

Dually Suspension Dually Tech
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following 4
 
bagged dually   +1y
I'm about to start ordering the rest of my suspension parts and can't figure out what type of link setup to run. I need something fairly strong, since my trucks fairly heavy, and I do a little bit of towing. I plan on just ordering end links and making my own link bars.
This brings me to my question of what is the best way to link a dually fairly cheap?? 2 link it with a panhard?? Triangular 4 link?? I don't the cash for some extravagant Watts link setup or something. Just need something easy and cheap.
Also should I try to run my bag in my lower bars since I do a little bit of towing or should I just put them on the axle for the strength??
Any advice would be awesome!!
guilty by design   +1y
Do a tri 4 link and put the bags on the lowers at a 1.25:1 ratio or something moderate. A parallel with panhard would be your 2nd best option but with as little room in the hips as these trucks have ive seen alot rub one of the fenders when layed out. Im getting ready to bag my old dually in the next month or so and im gonna do a lever 4 link on it.
bagged dually   +1y
Is it ok to run my bags on the bars and tow stuff?? I had always heard not to do that. I don't tow a lot ,but sometimes I pull my flat bed trailer with a vehicle on it. Will the lower bars hold up to that?? What type of square stock should I make the lowers out of to hold up to that,thickness wise?? I want to use 2"x2".
Also is there an advantage or disadvantage to running the link set up behind the axle?? I've only ran links in front of the axle, but I have seen a few guys running it behind. It looks like it would put more strain on the bars to me.
bagged dually   +1y
Anyone??
bigperm   +1y



2 link for the win. cheap to make, easy to set up, and you can just run some bags over the axle to tow.

hold it in place w/ a panhard or track-bar, and you're in business
sparkys-crewcab   +1y


that's exactly what i am doing to my truck. simple and it works. 2 link with a panhard bar/bags over the axle..
i bought some 3 inch poly end links from quality air ride/ suicidedoors...and used some 2x3 .25" steel tube. just make sure your link bars are as long as possible...

you can use 2x2 .25" and weld it right to the end links without modifying the ends of the bar (like i had to)

most of the time it is cheaper to build everything yourself. like the panhard bar, link bars. this way you can make it stronger than the stuff that you can buy off the shelf.

i would not do a reverse 2 link on a dually. sounds like it would put alot of stress on the links bars and the panhard bar. that is alot of weight to keep straight when its constantly putting pressure on all those link points. a mini truck would probably be ok running one. i still wouldn't do it...
bagged dually   +1y
Sounds like a 2 link is the cheapest and best way to go. Thanks guys. My inability to make decisions on this truck is driving me crazy. Just never built anything this big before and it can be quite intimidating trying to build a 21 foot long truck LOL.
guilty by design   +1y


Its alright to put that much weight on the bars, a 3 car wedge trailer would be too much tho. Use 2x2 with a 1/4'' wall thickness, 3'' wide bushings instead of 2.5'' to spread the surface area of the load across the bolt, and make sure the axle tabs you use are 1/4'' thick (mine are). I wouldnt run an offset bag setup (what people commonly call behind axle) let alone tow with one. They put the weight of your vehicle on a point thats trying to rotate the axle thereby pulling one set of pars and compressing the other. Adding weight only makes the problem worse and will wear out bushings and even bow linkbar crossmembers. Mke sure you center the bag over the bar so it wont twist the bar leading to bushing wear. I would also never run any kind of reverse link setup as it is exactly that, reverse. It will actually want to unload the weight off the backend of the truck while braking instead of planting it, and youll be making the truck "drive" from the rear crossmember instead of in the middle of the truck where theres more weight and has a better center of gravity.

You can run a 2 link if you want but i would reccomend against it. With a little more time and effort youll have a setup youll be much happier with.
sparkys-crewcab   +1y



it is the cheapest... but not the best way.

if i had the money. i would do a parallel 4 link with a watts link to center the rear end...., or use a panhard bar. with the bags over the axle...


i now what you mean. its a big truck to deal with when your used to messing with mini trucks...
bagged dually   +1y
Ya Sparky going from messing with my last bagged truck, a Mazda B2200, to this thing is night and day. Everything has to be so much heavier it leaves me wondering if I'm using heavy enough steel at every thought and plan to build anything.
Well I priced all my bushings and stuff tonight and it looks like it really isn't going to cost very much more to build the Tri 4 link. I really wanted to put my bags on my lower bars, but was unsure of the weight. I'll use 1/4" 2"x2" and probably run a gusset under the bar also just to make me feel a little more secure in the strength. Thanks for all the advice guys.
Guilty are you back to selling brackets and stuff yet?? I still have your number just waiting till I start buying the rest of my parts shortly. Is that new shop down there on 20th street kinda behind your old one, on the same lot,your new spot your setting up??
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