threads
Page 1 of 3
Dually Projects \  Updates to my 99 Chevy Dually

Updates to my 99 Chevy Dually

Dually Projects
views 6965
replies 21
following 8
 
gjf   +1y
OK, so i converted over to SRW front hubs. I'm not laying it out, just tucking the wheels in the fenders 5-6". I got the front arms done and back together. But I need to make longer drag links for the front sway bar as the ends of the sway bar hits the 8" bags. It's nice, only need 60psi to lift the front. I got the tubs started, made them high so If I ever wanted to lay it out I wouldn't have to re-do the tubs. I didn't get my steel delivery today, so waiting on monday to finish up the firewall. I'll be moving the batteries to the rear under the bed . After the fronts done, off with the bed and the new 3-link goes in along with the narrowed rear end. I'll post pics as I go.
thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo
Post was last edited on Mar 06, 2013 02:03. This post has been edited 1 times.
dzl1   +1y
GJF, how close does the the sway bar ends come to the bags? The reason I ask is because on my 72 c10 that's bagged, my sway bars came very close to the bags. What I did was cut about 3/4 of an inch off of each end of the sway bar. I then grinded it smooth so that there wouldnt be any sharp edges. And still had plenty of bar before it got to the bushing.

Just an idea.

DZL1.
duallyguy91   +1y
looks good.
gjf   +1y
Thanks DZL1, it's the I.D. Of the bar that hits. Of I raise the bar just a couple inches with longer drag links it will clear. I was thinking if worst comes to worst cutting the ends off and drill/trap the end of the bar and move the entire bar forward on the frame. I'll make some test pieces and make sure there is no binding before committing to the longer links. G
gjf   +1y
Got my steel today and started working the wheel well.

thread post photo


And put the other tub in, now just to figure out the harness pass though.

thread post photo
gjf   +1y
I finished up the front end.. Had to cut some more off the lower arms so they wouldn't rub against the tire and rim when turning. All good now. Pulled the bed off and fabbed the "C" notches. Will add the truss across the notches tomorrow as well. Also cut the rear and will be narrowing it tomorrow. Incidentally.... Every 1 ton rear I've worked on had .500 wall thickness on the axle tubes. But the SRW 1 ton rear had .250 wall. Are the C&C rears .250 wall or .500? Maybe because the DRW axle is 9" wider they decided to step up the axle tube thickness?
Will hang the rear tomorrow and fab up the 3-link.
thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo
gjf   +1y
Got the suspension wrapping up. Just waiting on new bags to finish the rear. I started cutting the bed so I can raise the floor. I don/t want the hump, so cutting up the bed so the floor is flat and one piece. Also started the fitting of the goose neck. More pics later.

thread post photo


thread post photo


thread post photo
tuckinuts   +1y
Nice, very nice sir. Its a breath of fresh air to see when someone takes pride in their work. Just that little bit of extra effort to make things clean and tidy. Kudos

And on a side note..... The work on your control arms is sanitary. I have to admit sharing pics of them around to a few buds.

Darrell
gjf   +1y
Thanks Darrell! I just hope my pics help contribute to this site as much as it has helped me out. Definitely have to agree on the spending extra time and effort to make it clean and tidy. If its done that way 9 times out of 10, it will work just as well. Measure, measure, measure, check, check and check and cut once..
gjf   +1y
Got the bed mounted and raised the bed floor. I'm happy the way it is coming out
thread post photo

thread post photo

thread post photo
Post was last edited on Mar 06, 2013 02:03. This post has been edited 2 times.