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Dually Suspension \  Removing ABS BS

Removing ABS BS

Dually Suspension Dually Tech
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replies 8
following 7
 
krewzlo   +1y
I have been contemplating deleting the abs crap on my dually. The more and more I think of it, the better it sounds. At first I was hesitant to mess with the brake system as it is already sub standard from the factory. I always have felt they could be better, they do stop, but don't know if I really needed them too, they would in a reasonable amount of space.

Anyways, what is needed to remove the abs? Obviously the controller/actuator deal (whatever it is called) needs to be 86'd , re-plumb the lines to the master cylinder. Mine does not have a proportioning valve that I can see, is it built into the abs unit? I would imagine I would need to add one, correct? Did any of the shitbox's not have abs that I could get the prop. valve from? Would a donor need to have hydro boost to use the same master cylinder and prop. valve?

I am not too keen on getting an aftermarket valve and have to try and adjust to work right.

Any other things I may be missing??
azsprsprt   +1y
Just use the hydro boost out of a square body, no vacuum booster and no electronics, there is a proportioning valve in the rear but I removed mine and it made no difference
bk2life   +1y
Why remove it? You might not like ABS until you need it..

Just do what the pros do, move the unsightly items behind the bumper. Then it is out of the way and still there to work when you need it to. Plus no abs light constantly lit in the dash..
mobboss   +1y
make sure you use a poportioning valve! they are there so when you need to slam on the brakes that all the fluid does not just all go to the rear wheels and all you do is skid into what you were trying to avoid.
someotherguy   +1y
It is correct that in the 1995-up 4 wheel ABS units used on these trucks, the proportioning valve is built into the ABS unit. The only 4 wheel setups that had the external proportioning (combo valve actually) were the pre-1995 Suburbans with that monster ABS unit, which was always going bad, by the way.

Go with a Wilwood or similar adjustable prop valve, that way you can tune it in to behave the way you want. No need to stick with stock components. Brakes are designed as a system; once you start substituting/mixing parts that whole system thing goes out the window so you'll want some adjustability in there.

Richard
pro53   +1y
Old thread , but I have a question. How did this work? I am wanting to clean up under the hood and that ABS SYSTEM is ugly and in the way. Trying to un clutter everything. Anybody do this mod and it works fine. If so whitch porportiong valve did you use?
krewzlo   +1y
I never did it in my truck. I just moved everything over a bit to clear everything.
john jones   +1y
I was thinking about this thread last night riding around in my truck... Mine still has all the factory stuff under the hood and underneath.. sensors and shit.. My ABS comes and goes.. and I think maybe it has something to do with these HUGE heavy wheels.. I can feel the ABS trying to kick in during fairly normal stopping and driving.. after a stop or two it usually stops working, the light comes on and stays on and it stops like normal again.. dunno.. just throwing it out there.. it always stops fine.. just sometimes, when the abs light is off.. I can feel it pulsing..

Maybe we NEED to remove it with these semi wheels?

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pro53   +1y
Mine doesn't act up with the 22" semis under it. I just don't like all the clutter . Maybe it's going out? My friend did take his ABS off his S10 blazer because it was going bad. Instead shelling out the coin for a new one he yanked it off and put a proportiong valve from another earlier model from a junk yard. It's works fine, but he did day it took a little more efford to stop. It's still working after 10yrs
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