drivers door doesnt shut right

I've replace the door pins in the drivers door twice and the door still doesn't shut right. I've looked closely at it and when almost shut the body lines on the door and the cab don't line up, the door sags down still. I don't know how I would fix that any ideas?

Floor jack and a block of wood

lol I actually already tried that to no avail!

Open the door just enough to get the jack under it with a block of wood then jack it up. I have done it several times on different vehicles. Remember you have to go further than needed to allow it to spring back a little when you take the jack out

I've always put my body weight on the front fender after I put the jack under there so there was more pressure on the hinges it helps

ive had to use a lift arm and do the same thing when the kent moore tool wouldnt get enough out of it so you prob just need to take it further

When you let the pins/bushings go bad for too long it damages the hinges. The top hole in the upper hinge (portion attached to the door) and bottom hole in the lower hinge (portion attached to body) are just an interference fit with the pin, there is no bushing there, and the pin eggs it out. You can't see the gap with the pin retainer in place but if you have someone grab the edge of the door and lift it up and down while you watch, you'll see motion.

The "official" fix is to replace the hinges which is a major PITA and I still don't know how body men get these on correctly without drama.

The "hack" fix which works damn well (assuming you have already replaced all the worn pins and bushings) is to remove the upper pin retainer, put the jack and block of wood under the rear corner of the door and lift it up so the gap in the hole is showing forward of the pin, grind a little on the hinge and the pin for clean metal and weld up the gap, just a TINY amount. You don't need much for a fix, and you don't want too much on there in case you need to remove the door in the future (to replace it from a crash, for example.) Not much room in there to grind on the welds, ya know. If it's still a little sloppy look at doing this on the lower hole I mentioned too.

Have done this personally...trust me, it works.

Richard

BTW you want to be REALLY REALLY careful with all this floor-jacking trying to bend the door into place. Look at your hinges. They're THICK. They do not bend. The door sheetmetal bends. It also will break. I've had to replace a guy's door because he broke the sheetmetal on the inner part, above the upper hinge.

You also want to be super careful with those adjustment tools that hook into the striker bolt. In fact I would never use one of those damn things. The striker bolt area is also thin sheetmetal and can crack. I've seen it, and have pics if you don't believe me.

A lot of what people think is a hinge needing adjustment is actually a hinge needing repair, as I described in my last reply.

Richard

yeap, what he said.