barrca
+1y
Greetings from Sunbury Australia .My son is now the proud owner of a1987 Ford Courier dual cab ute , which was a Mazda B2000 badged Ford here(You brobably already know that !) I originally bought it new in 1987 and it's been a great truck but he's decided we should tart it (This means he now owns it ,he pays the bills & i help with the labour & advice .I came across this site while searching for info on how to repair the faulty fuel gauge and couldn't think of a better place to start .
Hope you blokes don't mind it being badged 'Ford'
barrca
Hope you blokes don't mind it being badged 'Ford'
barrca
axel breaker earl
+1y
No Fords allowed!
Just kidding barrca! Welcome to the Scene! Your kid is gonna love the "Mazda" truck......I tried to get my youngest son in a Mazda......he was afraid of the manual trans when he was 15-16 y.o. so I wound up buying a Honda Civic at a good price for him (I had several friends wanting to buy the Mazda!) and he's still driving that today. He looks at my little red regular cab truck with envy now!
Anyway, did you fix the fuel sender?
Is it reading empty when is full, and then starts working right when it gets to 1/2 to 1/4 tank?
If so, it is fixable.....you need to remove the sender (I'm guessing it's a carbureted truck!) and remove the cover on it and just bend the little arm that is supposed to touch the coil of wire........you might want to clean the coil and the arm with Simple Green or something like that also.
I like to just pull the bed (don't drop the tank, too many hoses and you will probably break one of the plastic devices the hoses feed into!) but you can also loosen it and wedge a 2x4 in there to tilt it up enough so you can get your hands in there to work on removing it.......but it's nice to sit on the tire and work on it with the bed removed! Plus you can see inside the tank to find out if the inside is still in good shape (not rusting). Here are a couple of photo's showing the sender and the repair!
I think there are 6 or 8 of these 17mm bed bolts to remove.
You'll want to unbolt the filler neck AND the plastic recess here.
If you have the remote gas door release, you need to unhook it also.
Stuff a old rag in there to keep stuff out of your gas tank!
The reason you need to get the plastic recess out of there is because there is a bolt that holds the end of the filler tube in place, and you'll need to unbolt that.
You can screw your gas cap back on now so your not breathing gas fumes!
If you have the remote gas door release, then there are a few clamps that hold the cable to the underside of the wheel well, and a plastic retainer that holds the cable to the plastic wheel well filler extension.
Here's the plastic clip......you need to lower the plastic wheel well extension to get a pair of needle nose pliers on the backside of it so you can release the clip from the plastic WW extension.
Gas filler is taken care of, now we need to release a few wires to lift the bed off.
Unscrew the tail lights and unplug the wire harness from them.
There are a couple of plastic clips that can be un-clipped to release the wires from the rear of the bed floor so they won't come off with the bed!
Make sure you pull all of the 17mm bolts off......if you get them all you can slide the bed around a little bit and know you got them all......I think there is only 6 of them though.
This sounds like a bunch of work, but really, typing this is more of a pain than doing this bed removal!!
Here's what I removed to get ready to pull the bed!
Get a buddy to help lift it off or use your engine hoist, and walla!
Do yourself a favor and wash down the dirt before pulling the sender out of the tank!!
Something you can do while your here also.......check the condition of the vent hose for the filler neck......if it's like this one, when you fill the tank up, your gonna leak some gas here and you'll be smelling gas fumes until the level is low enough in the tank to where it doesn't slosh up and leak out of these cracks.....you'd be surprised how much this will leak!
NOW......you can remove the sender......I knew we were doing this all for something!!
The cover that you need to remove. I think it just has some tabs you need to bend up to open it.
And whats under the cover!
And a little explanation!
Re-install the sender, plug it in and turn on the key, and see what you have! You can even test it while it's out if you would like......just don't plug and unplug while the key is on......you don't want any sparks you know!
Now you'll need to put it back together again!
Just kidding barrca! Welcome to the Scene! Your kid is gonna love the "Mazda" truck......I tried to get my youngest son in a Mazda......he was afraid of the manual trans when he was 15-16 y.o. so I wound up buying a Honda Civic at a good price for him (I had several friends wanting to buy the Mazda!) and he's still driving that today. He looks at my little red regular cab truck with envy now!
Anyway, did you fix the fuel sender?
Is it reading empty when is full, and then starts working right when it gets to 1/2 to 1/4 tank?
If so, it is fixable.....you need to remove the sender (I'm guessing it's a carbureted truck!) and remove the cover on it and just bend the little arm that is supposed to touch the coil of wire........you might want to clean the coil and the arm with Simple Green or something like that also.
I like to just pull the bed (don't drop the tank, too many hoses and you will probably break one of the plastic devices the hoses feed into!) but you can also loosen it and wedge a 2x4 in there to tilt it up enough so you can get your hands in there to work on removing it.......but it's nice to sit on the tire and work on it with the bed removed! Plus you can see inside the tank to find out if the inside is still in good shape (not rusting). Here are a couple of photo's showing the sender and the repair!
I think there are 6 or 8 of these 17mm bed bolts to remove.
You'll want to unbolt the filler neck AND the plastic recess here.
If you have the remote gas door release, you need to unhook it also.
Stuff a old rag in there to keep stuff out of your gas tank!
The reason you need to get the plastic recess out of there is because there is a bolt that holds the end of the filler tube in place, and you'll need to unbolt that.
You can screw your gas cap back on now so your not breathing gas fumes!
If you have the remote gas door release, then there are a few clamps that hold the cable to the underside of the wheel well, and a plastic retainer that holds the cable to the plastic wheel well filler extension.
Here's the plastic clip......you need to lower the plastic wheel well extension to get a pair of needle nose pliers on the backside of it so you can release the clip from the plastic WW extension.
Gas filler is taken care of, now we need to release a few wires to lift the bed off.
Unscrew the tail lights and unplug the wire harness from them.
There are a couple of plastic clips that can be un-clipped to release the wires from the rear of the bed floor so they won't come off with the bed!
Make sure you pull all of the 17mm bolts off......if you get them all you can slide the bed around a little bit and know you got them all......I think there is only 6 of them though.
This sounds like a bunch of work, but really, typing this is more of a pain than doing this bed removal!!
Here's what I removed to get ready to pull the bed!
Get a buddy to help lift it off or use your engine hoist, and walla!
Do yourself a favor and wash down the dirt before pulling the sender out of the tank!!
Something you can do while your here also.......check the condition of the vent hose for the filler neck......if it's like this one, when you fill the tank up, your gonna leak some gas here and you'll be smelling gas fumes until the level is low enough in the tank to where it doesn't slosh up and leak out of these cracks.....you'd be surprised how much this will leak!
NOW......you can remove the sender......I knew we were doing this all for something!!
The cover that you need to remove. I think it just has some tabs you need to bend up to open it.
And whats under the cover!
And a little explanation!
Re-install the sender, plug it in and turn on the key, and see what you have! You can even test it while it's out if you would like......just don't plug and unplug while the key is on......you don't want any sparks you know!
Now you'll need to put it back together again!
Post was last edited on Apr 24, 2012 03:04. This post has been edited 1
times.
Cusser
+1y
I do the fuel sender thing a little differently than Earl. In fact, I did this job twice in two weeks because I bought a new fuel sock and went in to add it. Takes me under an hour my way.
See
See
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