Noob here from Florida

I just picked up a 89 B2200 for $750. The body is in great shape but needed a little mechanical work done. I had to replace the clutch and all that good stuff in the transmission, wasn't to bad. but I am loosing a lot of oil, I think it might have something to do with the PCV valve but not sure if that's the whole problem. the PCV has a really loose fit and the grommet and hose is on the south end of bad. Other than that is runs great, beside a carb issue (still has stock carb). I would like any and all advice and comments tips and tricks...... This is my first mazda. I am planning to drop it down a few inches. Not my first mini though. I will post a pic of the truck when I can, and continue to post the progress as I go along.

Check your compression, I read here the oil rings will lose tension or stick in these engines, which would be the size of the smallest diameter of cylinder, bottom, so not wiping the wall down. Low compression, squirt oil in low compression cylinders, if it makes a difference, rings probably are the culprit.
Of course prop the carb open during compression test.

That's what a friend suggested for me to do, but this morning on the way to work I blew the front main seal. At least that's what I'm assuming. stopped at the gas station and had an oil slick under the truck when I came out of the store and when I looked under the hood it looked like the oil was coming out from the mail crank pulley. So I think I'm going to try and find another motor to drop in.

If the pvcc valve is bad, that would allow pressure (ring leakage) in the engine to hunt another excape, which usually will be the crank seal. You can replace the three dollar valve, clean the engine and see.
It may be the seal only. The seal has been hot and cold alot of times over years. Not to mention wear from the shaft spinning inside it.
I still would check the compression. If compression is good, replace the seal and drive on. These motors seem to run forever.
Since you have already been there, let's hope it is not the rear seal.
Prices of used engines are high but still used, so figure parts, machining cost labor, if not yours to justify buying a used engine. Maybe you can find one locally and see it run before it is pulled. Go the the trouble of checking the compression, or watching them, on it before sealing the deal.

You can consider another engine, like 4.3 vortec GM. HEI distributor and pre-computer carburator. Cost and ability is always a part of the vehicle. I have done the 4.3, drop in, no truck modification. Uses original frame engine mount pads.

Thank you for the advice. I have never change a crank seal before. do you have to pull the motor out to do it, or is it something that can be done rather easily?

Have to use jack stands and get underneath. The crank pulley has to come off. According to room, the fan shroud may have to come off for room to operate. The old seal can be removed usually with a wide blade screw driver or clamp it with a pair of vise grips and work it out. The seal knocks into the timing cover and seals on the o.d. of the crank pulley, if that is all the problem is.
Sometimes the crank pulley can have a groove worn in it from years (a whole lotta spins) of contact with the seal. If this turns out to be the route take, try to get a seal with a double lip (two seal lips in it).
To get the seal in a uniform depth, after it is started into the cover, lay a small block of wood or metal (I have even worked around it tapping it in with an inverted short extension, even a socket) over the seal and tap the seal in until it is flush with the cover. Of course you have to do this around the crankshaft sticking out.
They make a sleeve that can be tapped on the crank pulley which will cover this groove if needed. Easier than trying to put the seal in shallow to sit on a different place on the pulley. Of course a double lip seal will not require this sleeve (one lip or the other will seal somewhere else).

Devote a day to it, if all goes well.

thank you for the advice. I will get to it this weekend.

On the B2200, the crankshaft oil seal and the camshaft oil seal are the exact same part. So just make sure the oil isn't leaking down from above.

Good time for a timing belt re-new too.

If you do this, you probably will need to pull the flywheel cover to keep the crank from turning when loosening and tightening the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt. Someone here probably knows what method to use to accomplish this. I never have done it on a Mazda. One usually would use a large screwdriver or pinch bar to do this.
After replacing the seal, be sure the crankshaft key(s) for the camshaft gear and crankshaft pulley are in place before reinstalling the cam shaft gear and crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft end. The crank mark on the pulley will not be in correct positioned to check/set timing if key is not there.
It also keeps the torque the belts (alternator, air pump, water pump, power steering and a/c) put on the pulley from spinning the crank pulley on the crankshaft.
BE SURE TO GET THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT tight, hopefully torqued. Be sure not to let the crank shaft get turned one revolution after the timing belt is off, as this will put the distributor half a turn off when you time the cam to the crank during reassembly of parts.