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General Discussion \  New the the forum, and Mazda trucks!

New the the forum, and Mazda trucks!

General Discussion
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themightyb   +1y
I bought an 87 B2200 last week. Everything was perfect until it over heated. It wasn't an cataclysmic over heat. (as this isn't my first rodeo with cooling system issues.) Well, i get the truck home and now it has a horrendous knock. Beyond lifter noise. (I replaces all 8 HLA's upon buying the truck) Here is a video I took. This was a cold start and regardless of how long i let it run/drive it, it doesn't get worst or get better. On rockauto I have the master rebuild kit in the shopping cart ready to check out, But i was wondering if anyone can "pinpoint" what could be making this noise? To me, it sounds like a rod about to come through the engine. But since this is my first Mazda and I have seen/read people on here having HEAPS of knowledge about these trucks I figured I would actually make an account and join the party! Any help is greatly appreciated!!




-Shawn
mazdatweaker_2   +1y
To me. that noise sounds like piston slap. When the engine overheated the rings for one of the pistons got compressed into the rings lands and now they are stuck, leading to the rattle.

My .02.
dan woodland   +1y
Time for a rebuild. I wouldn't run it any longer...
sincitylocal   +1y
It's way too loud for piston slap, but it does sound like it's from the reciprocating assembly. Just to eliminate the possibility of upper engine, pull the valve cover and check the rocker arms.
geterdun   +1y
Rod rattle, disconnect and replace distributor plug wires one cylinder at a time, if it stops on any/all, that/those is/are the rod/rods that is/are causing the noise. (before the / is a sentence, after the / is another sentence.)
In overheating, the rod cap can stretch, so bearing may be good, but the bore in the rod will be egg-shaped. Probably a melted rod bearing, but have the rods resized anyway while pulled down. It could be a worn journal, but these cranks are made from good steel (cast).
Or do the engine upgrade, if planned.
themightyb   +1y
Thanks for all the help! I did get a set of new wires and pulled them one at a time and listen carefully. The noise continued with no change. (Reluctantly) drove it to a mechanic and as i pulled up he was already staring at me puzzled. ( I know him very well) He said to me "well its rebuild or new engine time!". We shared a laugh at the horrific knock and i drove back home. The way my job eats my time and screws with my schedule, I believe replacing the engine is what I'm going to do. (I smell an engine swap thread in my future) hahaha.

Now my question is this, other than an engine from an 87 Mazda B2200, what else is a direct (or damn close) replacement? also, would an engine from an automatic b2200 work? Does the crank have a spot for a pilot bearing?


-Shawn
geterdun   +1y
Yes the automatic engine will replace yours, you will need to install the pilot bushing. I do not know of another engine that will bolt up to your transmission. Fish around here, there are a lot who have done swaps like that.
All I have done was 4.3 (instant 190 horses) GM truck Vortecs (with carb and HEi distributor from 86 engine) with automatics, drop in fit, use redesigned original shifter and radiator with flex fan. No truck modifications, just some little things. More on that if you consider it.
Is the sound more a dull thud? If so main bearing. Noise disappear when you push in the clutch? Thrust bearing.
themightyb   +1y
@Geterdun The 4.3 does look like a good option. how much of a headache would the wiring harness be? I was also mulling over the idea of the 4BT. Although that might be biting off a little too much for me to chew at this point. Also i posted a link to a video of it running if you wanted to hear its melodic roar .
befarrer   +1y
Kia Sportage is the same block as the B2000, which is a shorter stroke than the B2200 engine, except it is fuel injected, and DOHC, and I think makes 130HP stock. Engine mounts and all accessories bolt up, including the transmission, only exception is you have to convert to EFI, so there is a bunch of wiring, and fuel system upgrades. If you have experience, or want to tackle the wiring, the Sportage motor is a good option. I would assume fuel mileage will increase over the carb motor, and reliability would go up, along with driveability.
geterdun   +1y
I have no idea about the 4BT, but do love the rattle of a diesel from inside the vehicle and out. Here is a swap site from Google, have not been there yet ( ).



4.3 w/ automatic from a truck (not an astrovan).
I have a 5 speed, opted for the automatic, I mean 190 horse, who needs the 4th gear chirp of the tires ?
Although it was sweet from my 66 G.T.O. in the day.


4.3 leads> oil pressure switch (label when you disconnect from engine), starter (label when you disconnect the switch lead), hot for distributor (the lead going to the coil will work), temp gauge (label when you disconnect), alternator (label lead from original for the dash light), torque converter lockup (not necessary at the beginning, just helps highway mileage). Seems that is all.
Throttle- use original cable
Motor mounts- get late seventies, short profile and has anti buck for when a mount breaks.
If your fuel pump is mechanical and on the engine, electric fuel pump will be needed (hot lead from thee switch when in on position.). If your pump is in the tank and your truck is carburated, that should work for the new engine.
Some people go with the donor truck's computer and wiring harness, wiring it into the Mazda's harness. You will need a fuel pump for the needed pressure if you go this way. That way may be simpler than carb and non bot distributor. I just wanted away from the bot, it dies you walk.
Radiator- original, just have to make or find lower hose.
Fan- flex
Power steering- pump is right there by the steering sector
Exhaust- the driver side I think I had to cut the flange off the end of exhaust manifold and turn it or angle it to clear the frame. Headers may clear or a different manifold (from some other vehicle).
There is a guide underneath on the passenger side of mine for the emergency brake cable that had to be altered or turn over, or something simple, to clear the drive shaft.
The cross member under the engine has to be redesigned.This is not a big deal. I can walk you through it if you go this way. That is all