shavin it

i ordered my shaved door handle kit the other day from fbi. and i should have my welder very soon im just tryin to find the one i want. im shavin off EVERYTHING cept the cowl, and ive already got a fullskin rollpan combo on there. j/w if yall got any tips for me on the handles or the gas door, or emblems or w/e. especially the handles. i just want as much info as i can get before i get started on it. and my truck will be all white primer after this lol...ill take any help yall can give me bout how you did it, what you used, or just w/e. thanx...

the less bondo the better, use as much metal as possible, so it leaves less room for shrinking and cracking out, also space your welds out a good bt and go slow, i am not a body man by any means but have watched it done many times and seen what can happen if it is done wrong,

yeah ive had my own expirience w/bodywork lol. i did all of it on mine when i did that fullskin rollpan combo. and glassed some shit in the interior myself. i hate bondo, but i despise fiberglass. i just do it cuz im 17 w/a sucky job..and im PO nigga! dont wanna pay nobody else to. lol anyway where exactly does the solenoid and the brain need to be mounted? where can i mount the solenoid so the window wont be in the way

fuck it the best way to leearn is do it yourself, maybe go to the local junkyard and buy a mazda door to practice on, i dont like fiberglass either but it looks good when its done, so i do it anyway, lol, but yeah man prcatice makes perfect and in the long run wil save you lots of money, and hey at least you have a job shitty or not, at least you are making something of yourself

yeah i know man. ive had to pay for virtually everything on my truck. it sucks but youre alot more proud in the end. i might just do that i know where i can get an old s10 door for free. yeah my console looks pretty good after i glassed it but it took bout 3 weeks to get it that way lol. but thanx for the help bro

after tachin in the sheetmetal, use short strain fiberglass(mixes like body filler) and fill in the gaps and low spots, then knock the fiberglass down a little low and run back over it with body filler untill its smooth. and when you tach the metal in speace the spot welds out about every 2" and spot and let it cool so you dont wrap the metal.

just a quick reminder, dont try and get the fiberglass smooth and primer over it, it will never happen thats why I said knock the Fiberglass down low and run back over it with body filler and then if needed for pinholes use putty cote. not sure if you know, but just so I know you know I'm saying..

also after you thihnk you got it good and smooth and feathe edged good, tape you off a square around it, shoot it with primer surfacer and block it out or (color sand which ever you wanna call it) with 400grit sandpaper on a paint mixing stick. also, if you dont plan on painting your truck for a while and your leaving it primerd, do your self a favor and spray it with epoxy primer and not primer surfacer. the best thing to do it spray all the body part you did body work on with high built 2 part primer and block it out good and then spray the whole truck with epoxy primer.. if you need any help let me know, ill try to help

ight. man i hate some fiberglass. after i tack the sheetmetal in it would be straight to just use some fiber reinforced bondo wouldnt it? i dunno ive never did it before but im just askin cause i hate fiberglass, and if i do fiberglass ill prolly end up gettin resin all over my truck. ive already got a gallon bucket of regular bondo and a gallon of fiber reinforced bondo so if i could use that then i wouldnt have to buy nothin else. so space my tacks bout 2" apart and gradually tack it up till its fully welded in right? i know some people dont tack it all the way up and i dont even wanna take any chance at all w/ crackin out. but whats the difference between epoxy primer and primer surfacer? what im doin is once i get everything shaved im just gonna take it to my friends dad and let him primer the whole truck. hes a painter so i know he will make sure all my body work is right and stuff. but ill be ridin around w/ white primer spots till i get everything shaved off.

The short strain fiberglass doesnt use resin and glass sheets. its mixes just like body filler with harder. and space your tach welds out about 2-2 1/2" apart, and after you spot weld the metal all around every 2" thats gonna be plenty of welding, theres no way it would even think about coming out. also the differance between epoxy primer and primer surfacer is, primer surfacer fills and builds for sand scratches and other small inperfrections in your body work. also primer surfacer soaks up water like a spunge and holds water which is bad for running it on your truck for a while. expoxy primer is what you would spray over all the primer surfacer and body work. its more of a sealer than anything. also dont take off welding a bead on the sheetmetal, it will wrap the crap out of the metal and thats no fun getting stright if its even possible with average skills. also I wouldnt recommend using the body filler brand "bondo" after a while it shrinks and starts to crack, if you got the cash pick up some rage gold light weight body filler, cant ask for a better body filler. one more thing, be sure you grinf down all your welds so there a little low, always better to build up a sligh low spot.

if you need any help with it, PM me or post it on here, ill help as much as I can.