Front shocks!

Alright, so I figured, hey maybe I should buy my drop shocks? Then I went on FBI and found out the front shock relocation requires the front shocks to have bolt-through ends on the shock! Our fronts are a bolt-through and a stud.

So what I'm wondering, can I do a front shock relocation right now and get my drop shocks without having air? I mean, I would'nt see why it would cause any problems?

Do I not need drop shocks when I do bags? I've been under the impression that you need drop shocks with bags.

Another thing! I just noticed that right now with my low profile 14's on, my front bump stops sit on the lower control arm! Do I need to shave them or is it okay?

you can relocate your shock now, you don't have to wait for bags. hell you can even keep your stock shock and get the relocator kit and put on another one too!
if your arm and bumpstop are touching and you like it like that don't change it, but if you want a little bit of travel shave them down or remove them completely. the only downside to that is you'll bottom out harder because there's no rubber to cushion the travel.
you don't need "drop shocks" you can buy any shock from any manufacturer just as long as it has the right spec's... you'll need to make sure that the extended and colapsed heights will work with what you have for suspension travel.

Wait, lol! Two shocks on one side, you mean? Haha, okay...

Well, it does seem to ride a little better than when I had my big snow tires on! Must be why... I just was wondering if it was going to kill my shocks?

What do you mean right spec's? Like the same specificatios as the stock shocks? Or do you mean spec's as same as susp. travel? I was under the notion that drop shocks would be better on bag setup.

I plan doing Re-6's front and back. So that would be 6" travel, right?

Oh and on the side note, might as well while I'm at it, do I have to do anything to my balljoints when I bag it or will they be fine? I looked on FBI and their custom a-arms talk about the balljoints being angled or something so it sits right when its dropped...

stock shocks arn't good for lowerd vehicles because you've reduced the amount of suspension travel, thus the reason for dropped shocks. to find out the correct spec shock, you will first need to know how much suspension travel you have or are going to have once you bag it, i.e. fully extended, and fully compressed, to do this you can jack up the truck, and just before the tires leave the ground, measure this between the shock mounting points, it will be your fully extended length, now let the truck back down, and you'll want some one to push down on it, to bottom out the suspension, measure this in the same way, it will be your fully compressed length....the difference between the two will be your amount of travel.....the next thing to do would be to find a shock with the correct mounting style with as close to the correct ext. length, comp. length, and travel....

Okay, so I've got one last question. Since I've only got a static drop, and will be doing a bag setup, if I get the shocks now, will the bags make a difference? I plan on doing the RE-6's. So from that, that would be a 6" raise and drop, right?

the 6 in RE-6 means that the bag has an outer diameter of 6".

the RE-6 bag has a minimum height of 3" and a max height of 10", so the bag itself gets 7" of lift.

How much lift you get with it depends on how you set up the bag brackets.

what he said is true, and the way i told you to measure will work for the suspension the way it is now (static), you could use the same shock when you bag it, but may have to change one of the mounting points to keep the full range of travel of the shock.....

Okay, well when I get the bags going, I'll just try and post up about it again if problems arise... Thanks for the help guys.