Brake problem..

something like that i always get new.. Let ya know if thats the issue tomorrow..ty Guys...

Just a share on brake issues.I had weak braking to a degree.So I went to replace my fronts new everything.In short my upper slide pins were so rusted I could not remove the caliper as 2 parts.Keep in mind the upper slide pin is made on to the holding bracket for the pads.In short truck sat mostly and not driven much and brake work from 10yrs and me not checking the slides and regreasing as I should have.I went to napa went with new reman calipers for 45.00 with a core bc I could not take them apart.Most stores sell the caliper listing first WITH out the holding brkt.Be sure to check your calipers and they are not rusted on and not come apart as it should.Crappy brakes and my mistake,but not again!I chk mine once a yr and regrease those slides on the front.Learned from this I did.

I'd recommend a good-quality master cylinder, or actually what I have is a lifetime-warrantied one. I've had my '88 18 years now, and I've gone through numerous brake and clutch master cylinders and clutch slave cylinders. I have NOT ever had to touch my rear brake wheel cylinders.

Remember to measure the depth of the recess in the existing master cylinder and the new one, and adjust the brake/booster pushrod accordingly so you get close to the same amount of free play.

Master cylinder brake hints and tips
(1) Bench-bleed the cylinder before installing.
(2) Use a flare wrench for inital loosening and final tightening of the lines.
(3) For brake master cylinder: adjust the pushrod length so that the freeplay is the same as the previous master cylinder (measure depth of bores, and adjust the pushrod the difference)
(4) Don't bend the line after it's loose
(5) Thread in the line fitting several turns by hand to avoid cross-threading, maybe even get this started before tightening the MC mounting bolts.

Brake vacuum booster testing
A vacuum booster can also be checked for internal leakage with a vacuum pump. Remove the vacuum hose from the check valve and connect the vacuum pump directly to the check valve or inlet fitting. With the pedal released, you should be able to draw a 17- to 20-inch vacuum, and this vacuum reading should hold steady for several minutes. A leak in the control valve or booster chamber is indicated if the drops. Next, apply the brakes with moderate pressure on the pedal. An immediate drop in the reading should occur as the pedal moves. Draw the vacuum back to 17 to 20 inches and observe the reading to make sure it does not drop more than 2 inches in the next thirty seconds. A leaky diaphragm, control valve, or vacuum chamber is indicated if it does drop.

Hell yea a junk yard. its worth it to check for us unbagged broke folk. chances are u see one of these trucks there most hydrolics been replaced. 70% of the time you can get one les than two years of use. simple statistics. oem master last what 15 years? its been replaced. gotta remember not everyones wallet is fat enough to unfold itself. ultimately yea new is the most promising and safest and many will rightfully go that rout. but u can get lucky. p.s. new master is about 60 or 70 around here. i went the junk yard rout gotta bran spankin new one 15 bux. you know your area and whats best for your truck. good luck!!

Cool thankS for the advice.. Will do it this weekend and let u know.