mazda engine problems..

Ya so my 88 B2200 is a decent truck, didnt pay much for it but man it gives me one problem after another. The ignition switch has like 4 dead spots in it that makes it shut off while Im driving or not start at all. But thats the least of my worrys. The carb is pretty much shot, on a bad day itll bog and hesitate and buck when trying to accelerate but the biggest pita is it wont idle at a stop light, I have to use 3 feet to work all the pedals to keep it running when I come to a stop. Raising the idle doesnt Help besides make it race at like 1500-2k rpm, neither do the mixture screws but theres gas in some vacuum lines, I have plenty of mechnical experience to see its bad.

What are allll my options to getting this fixed? I do not want to spend much money and a rebuilt import carb is a good amount of money, and Im assuming anything aftermarket is more. The engine also burns/leaks oil like crazy, and I saw someone said Autozone or someone has a rebuild kit for like $350..its more money than Id like to spend but rebuilding stuff is pretty fun heh.

I also want to get rid of all the air injection and evap crap and the 10000 vacuum lines everywhere. Lemme know whats up, thanks.

well you can get a webber 32/36 carb if you can find one.. i had a friend sell me one for 20 bux.. so they are they to be found. And that will eliminate your large oily mess of vacume lines.. but that won't fix the burning and leaking oil. Do you know where its burning or leaking from? Valve covers, oil pan seals, drain plug, rocker arm cover, oil filter, oil preasure switch, intake valve seals. Are you sure its burning.. and not leaking onto something hot? It could also be internal such as pistons worn out, piston rings, exhaust valve seal, valve stems, or worn valves and guides. As for the surging.. it could be an intake leak or a bad fuel pump.

I saw something about an adaptor plate to bolt the Weber up..?

Pretty much every external seal is leaking, but it burns oil out the tailpipe like crazy and Im leaning towards piston rings..

I did a quick search on eBay with a bunch of carbs listed..is there anything specific I should be looking for?

it has to be a 32/36 DGEV.

also you can try running a thicker oil to get by for a little while.. but it is very temporary.

ya ive been running 15w45 or 20w50 sicne i got it haha doesnt make any real difference.

is there some kind of adaptor i need to run with the 32/36? why the DGEV, whats the difference between the DGV or DGAV or anything?

For your carb problem why don't you go down to your local u-pull it yard and pull a carb off a truck there and swap yours out . It shouldn't cost you but like 30.00 or so . your other issues i can't help you with as i just swapped my motor out for my spare b2000 . i'm gona get a rebuilt motor after bit when i get my money squared away .

believe it or not theres like 5 b2200s down at the junkyard and every one of them has the top end pulled off. besides i want to get rid of the medusa of vacuum lines and this weber carb seems like a viable swap but no one is really answering my questions..

i've seen ppl pull webers off of old 1.8 VW's, they work but it starves the 2.2...about adapter plates, sometimes they show up on ebay, but you'd be better off fabbing one up out of MS

they actually make a similar carb to the weber called "Redline Weber"...same specs, u can get it for your mazda, only difference is that it is a manual choke instead of electric