threads
Page 1 of 2
Mazda Engine General \  need engine experience

need engine experience

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
views 1697
replies 10
following 7
 
shapinoweno   +1y
hey guys,
Well i bought a 86 mazda b2000 off of the orignal owners. It has only 86,000 miles. It allways fires up and runs great, but the engine gets real hot.

It seems like im burning oil as well as leaking it. there is oil around the valave cover, so i think i need a new gasket. but how can i get it to run not so hot? and stop it smelling like burnt oil?

Oh an i just did a tune up, platinum 2 plugs, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter.

Help me out guys.
Thanks
pont   +1y
try flusing it also check your headgasket i know mine did that and busted the Rad i got a used one and it still done it ended up buy a new one and fixed my problem might also be the thermosta stiking
lukeinva   +1y
put in a new thermo. Also check your housing make sure it aint cracked check you rad's hoses make sure they are good. Check your head gasket. Flush your rad system like pont said. on my 87 even though I had it for a year I never changed out the rad fluid...When I finally did it took me about 10 mins of running the hose through that thing for the water to actually get clear and that was after I used some of that prestone cleaning flush stuff. You may just want to make sure your valve cover screws are tight. ALso the valve cover gasket doesnt usually go bad the grommets that go around the bolts are usually the problem. But for $12 bucks at auto zone you can get the grommets and gasket.
slammed83mazda   +1y
Like Luke Said,

I would first check your thermostat or grab the hose after you turn ur truck off if it feels extremely hot more than likely ur thermostat is bad and isnt opening up, I had same problem myself.

But, soon after I did that I noticed a white smoke when i staerted truck up, head gasket blew, so the truck would over heat extremely bad.

I recommend checking ur thermostat.

give us more details thanks man
tunes67   +1y
All of the suggestions above are good ones and should fix your problem.. on a side note:



A lot of folks dont realize that over time copper can lose its ability to conduct heat efficiently.. a typicaly copper core radiator is usually only good for about 10 years.. even if they dont spring any leaks. Yes there are ones that have lasted longer... But they are no longer operating at their normal or maximum efficiency. Aluminum core radiators typically last much longer. Just a little FYI for the future. Cheers

Tunes67
shapinoweno   +1y
Ok guys well I bought the stupid gasket from mazda and they charged me 22 bucks for just the gasket.
I am going to check out the thermostat tommorow, I bought a new one so I will install that and the gasket tommorow.
Also I am going to flush out the radiator and put new coolent in tommorow.
You guys don't flush out the rad with the truck running do u?
I don't think so but I figured I would ask anyways.
Hopefully that will fix it. I really don't want to do the head gasket, I had to do that to my old mazda and it wasent very fun.
But if I do, i f I replace it before it blows out would I have to resurface the head as well? I know if it blows then you will have to resurface the head cause its alluminum. But what if I replace before it goes bad?

Also does anyone know were I can get a radiator for a good price? Radiators for my old car were like 350 and I'm not trying to spend that. Especially since I just droped 1500 on my bag set up.

Thanks guys for the replys
nytrdr24   +1y


i got a 2-row (p/n p865 for a/t) from car parts.com it was $125 shipped
it should cool better than the stock 1 row that came stock in my 5-speed
shapinoweno   +1y
Ok guys now I got a new damn problem.
I need to know what controls the choke? Cause when I start my car the revs jump to 2k. Which is fine, but even after I let it warm up a bit and started driving the revs stayed at 2k at idel for like 6 miles.
Finley it came down but I am really worried that I'm going to blow the damn engine.
I have to use my truck to deliver for work tommorow and I am really worried, please help.
Thanks guys
tunes67   +1y
Use some carb cleaner and a toothbrush and clean your carb up.. sounds like the choke plate is sticking a bit.. The automatic choke is actually plugged into the back of the alternator.. at least on my 87 it is anyway. Hope this helps.

Tunes67
89b2200   +1y
The cold idle rpm can be adjusted.


As the engine warms up, the electric choke should drop the rpm when you blip the gas pedal.
If it does not drop the rpm, the electric choke connector behind the alternator is dirty.
You need to pull out the connector and clean both male and female connectors.
Hope that helps.