Mazda B2200 stock carbs

I have 3 spare stock carbs that I started tuning today.
One came off the 92, second came off my 88, third came off the junkyard B2200.
It was funny that all of them are tuned now to my 89B without rebuilding or cleaning.
Idles steady at 800 rpm, O2 sensor output at idle crosses the 500 mV between 300-700 millivolts.
At 2k rpm to WOT, O2 sensor output also behaves the same way but between 400-800 mV.
All solenoids must be working including the Mixture control solenoid.

The tricky part on the stock carb is the idle mixture setting at idle rpm.
If the primary throttle plate has too much opening, allowing too much idle air,
the idle mixture needle opening cannot compensate thus leans out the idle mixture and causes rough idle no matter how much the needle valve is opened.
The idle mixture safety pin must be pulled out to be able to make adjustments and the carb pulled off the manifold.
I had to make 3-4 idle screw and idle mixture adjustments using a digital voltmeter backprobed to the O2 sensor plug to get the smoothest idle.

Now I can get my 88B running and the rest will have to go.
So if you are having problems with your stock carb, don't give up yet.
It can be tuned to match your aging engine while you are saving up for a Weber or Holley.

Now, which vacuum lines we can get rid off without affecting driveability, we'll see.

hey dude your check engine light is on! j/k

nah, that is an excellent post..it ought to help
out a lot of peeps with the stock carb....post up
what you figure out on the vac lines...they are
always asked about...

What was that? Is that the check engine light? Never paid attention.

I'll play with it again today and start eliminating vacuum lines. Have to get some more vacuum port plugs though.

the engine light might have been on because you had that meter pluged into the o2 sensor line.......i just saw it in the pic w/ the tach, have you made any prog with the vac lines?

1. I have the idle compensation and vauum lines removed and the truck did not seem to get affected.
If you drive only in a flat area close to sea level, it looks fine to remove it. Not in areas with varying elevations or mountains.
The carb needs additional air bleed at More than 2000 FT elevation because the air gets so thin otherwise the carb will run rich.
2. For sure the air injection system and vacuum lines can be removed. Not sure how long the cats will last if the carb starts running rich due to a failed mixture control solenoid.
3. The emissions stuff, egr, will try that later.

I know a guy here who has been driving his truck close to a year now with just the vacuum advance I believe on a stock carb.
I am not sure if he wants to share his experience so I will not reveal his acreen name.
His truck seem to be running fine and idles great too.
Later.

LOL,that's the parking brake light!

My mechanic told me my idle mixture control solenoid is shot,but everything seems A-OK in my truck, Maybe he's just a retard. My carb is cleaner than the cleanest part of my truck.