B2000 Head; B2200 Head???

ok i went to pick up my bench seat and tailgate today of an 86 b2000. the guy said he was going to crush it within the next few weeks but he said to let him know what i wanted before he crushed it.

My question is will a b2000 head fit a b2200 or does the b2000 have the mechanical lifters instead of the hydraulic lifters? he told me that i could have the hood and the head for 75 bucks. he would even pull it off for me so that he could go ahead and crush it. is it worth getting the head? i want mechanical lifters now because i am really tired of these junky hyd. lifters.

tru the 2k head has the mech lifters & rocker arm assembly.... the splash plate on in the heads won't interchange, but everything else will from what i've heard. if the rocker arm assembly is in good shape i'd say it's a fair price for it & the hood....if the head isn't cracked it deffinately is work the $75.

hell, if you don't want it i'll give you the $75 just for the head....

cool man thanks. i some how new you would be all over this question, i almost just pm'd you. i will call him tomorrow and tell him to save it for me. i guess i will just send this head to get rebuilt and then swap them out. what do you think NYTRDR24?

i still need the rocker arm assy. from a mech lifter head for my engine, i have found one close, i just gotta get time to go pick it up...they want $100 for the head...

a couple suggestions, make sure you get the head bolts, windage tray, & valve cover.......also need to look it over real good & see if it's cracked or not....if so, i would just get the rocker assembly & any other little parts, if not, i'd clean it up a little bit, send it to paeco industries & let them do a few things to it:
**double check for cracking or warping
**plane (shave) the bottom of the head just slightly (i can't remember exact specs from the manual, but it can be shaved just slightly to make sure it is true)
**port & polish (or you can do this after you get the head back & save some $$)
**custom ground cam (they offer several grinds/lift options @$225)
**custom bronze valve guides ($8 ea = $64)
**hi-perf. valve springs ($8 ea. inner & outer =$128)
**larger valves intake & exhaust (ferrera makes some for a 626 that will fit w/ custom bronze valve guides @$20 a piece)
**perf. spring retainers & seats ($10ea. for steel ret. or $21 for titanium ret., not sure on the seats)
**spark plug hole sleeve inserts (alum of the head will expand & contract, the spark plug threads are steel which expand & contract at a different rate (slower) than that of the head, in higher compression apps, this could lead to the the head expanding faster than the plug & when the fuel mixture combusts it will blow the plug out of the head)[not sure on this as far as $$]
**3 angle valve grind & lapp valves in for proper seating
**head studs (reason i said get the head bolts, they can make you a set, but they have to have the bolts to get the correct length) [[$110 a set]

they are located in birmingham, al so shipping shouldn't hit the ole pocket too hard, this is where i'm getting parts made for my head, & hocbj is getting his motor....here is their # 205-823-7278 & web address

dude, i really appreciate it! that is exactly what i needed to hear. and probably what i will do. i am starting to rethink dropping a v8 in her now. i can do all of this and more hp and still get good gas mileage. thanks bro.

he just emailed me and told me he will pull everything and have it ready for me next weekend. the onlt thing that pi$$e$ me off about my truck is that damn ticking noise in the eng. especially after i just rebuilt her about 10000 miles ago.

Not positive but i think the headbolts are torque to yeild bolts once they are torqued they shouldnt be used again.. i would buy a new set of headbolts

tru, but getting head studs made (since no one makes a set aftermarket readily avail.) are even better than new bolts....more even torque across the head.....

my dad and i rebuilt the block, i bought the head from a company in dallas, tx. before i ordered it i asked specifically if they installed new lifters, and they said yes. then i got it all together and the lifters never would prime. so i called them back and they said oh no, new lifters are to expensive. i told them that they should have told me that from the get go so that i could have bought new lifters for it. so i had to pull it all back apart and install the new lifers, well when i did that their helicoils started coming out, therefore i had to pretty much re-helicoil the entire head. then i got it all back together with the new lifters and they only lasted for about 2 months. i think that the valve springs are jacked but i am tired of working on this head, so i am just going to send the b2000 head off to get rebuilt.

i too was seriously thinking about the 4.3L. it is basically the 350 minus 2 cyl. i figured it would still be good on gas with a big increase in hp plus all of the after market parts they make for the 4.3L. but i think i will just stick with the 2.2 and build another mazda later to run with the big boys.

sounds like the springs are toast, along w/ the lifters....paeco ought to be able to fix you up, check around where your at, you might be able to find someone w/ experience on these heads & could fix you up with something comparable to paeco's at a lesser price.

yeah, that was my take on the 4.3 as well, i'm gonna keep this one stock & maybe later down the road i'll build another bag it & put a supercharged 4.3 vortec or turbo 3.8 out of a grand national......but i really think i'm gonna do it bassackwards from what you did (mustang then mazda), my next one i really think will be a mustang sorta like the one on this page
but in a 66 fastback or a 69 coupe w/a supercharged "cammer" 302 engine & 6 speed tranny or maybe a z-code boss 429 engine...