1hotdawg
+1y
Ok thought this may be helpful for someone in the future, as the same thing would have helped me with finding some of the parts...though the pinned Holley 5200 and Cusser's, on mazdatrucking.com, posts were very helpful.
First off I bought my Holley remanufactured off Ebay for $95 plus I think $10 for shipping, so $115...Autozone can get them for like $165 I think.
Bought the weber adapter plate from webercarbsdirect seller on Ebay for $45 shipped.
I went through buying various pieces from Autozone, advance, Home Depot and Lowes, so I probably spent around $40 buying misc items, most of which I ended up not needing.
I also used a throttle cable for a 69 VW Bug (since I used to have one I knew how long the cables were)...which I can actually make 2 cables from, so I'll now have a backup if this one brakes.
Of course I started like most carb swaps would by removing the old one, and labeling...anyway you can all the vacum hoses and just using screws and tape to cap them for now. And yes remove that black plastic plate with wire coming from it that the old carb sat on.
As Cusser put in a post he had on here with his installation tips for the weber, do not try to tighten the the four studs that the weber adapter uses to bolt your new carb to, they don't tighten, and they will break your plate where the allen bolts go through...I did mine so I lavishly laid permatex around it and it seems to have held up. Oh yeah, use permatex lightly on ALL your seals.
Once the carb was installed I was able to shorten my fuel line, more than I actually did really, since the fuel inlet is right above the fuel pump lol.
The stock throttle cable would not reach the accelerator arm of the carb. So this was what I had to figure out. So I went into my buying various items to make it possible for the arm assembly to reach the stock cable. Eventually I realized what I needed and that I needed a longer cable, so I went with the VW cable for a whole $2.95 Bought a set of window and door pulleys from Home Depot, $5.95, a brass 2" 90 degree bracket, and a brass 1" 90 degree bracket. I had earlier bought some 1/4"x1/2" screws, nuts, and washers. So all of this probably ran about $15 or so.
I cut off the old throttle cable holder from the old carb and bolted it to the 2" 90, of which I cut the other end down to only one bolt hole so I could mount it to the valve cover bolt. I mounted the pulley to the carb via the 1" 90 and 1 1/4" screw that bolted to the carb itself...thanks to a nice threaded hole there already
As for attaching the throttle cable, I first had to adapt it to go through...or not go through...the pedal assembly in the truck....you can see the pics how it was done. Then to I ran it over the pulley and bolted it down to the throttle arm assembly using a (I think) 1 1/4" bolt I had already, a couple of flat washers, and one star type lock washer to keep the cable from slipping through. This is the only thing I worry about right now, if the cable was to finally slip through the bolt assembly. One day I'll fix this better, but until then I carry the tools needed to fix it just in case...wise thing to do anyway.
I couldn't believe but the carb started right up once the bowl got full of fuel. I have now added a throttle return spring, (from the old carb), cuz the hammer just wasn't quite going shut all the way. I went with a manual choke so I removed all the clutch stuff I needed to. Right now she runs great! When warm she runs about 800rpm or so, so it's a lil higher but I think I like it there...helps in morning I also used a throttle return spring bought from Advance for the choke to help it open back up...should be a neccessity with the kit cuz that cable's too dang weka to push the choke back open imo.
Once assured everything was running good I commenced to removing the emissions stuff...1 by 1, and I'd start the truck here and there just to make sure I didn't remove the wrong thing lol. I've still got some wires I'd like to remove, but over all there's more room under the hood now lol.
Anyway, here's the pics:
This is the piece I used to keep the throttle cable from going through the pedal assembly...it's a 3/32" Ferrule and Stop Set bought from Home Depot found in the cable and chain area.
Here's a decent shot how I attached the 90's and the pulley:
How I did the cable on the carb:
Here's most of the vacum stuff removed...charcoal can is also gone:
The passenger fender and some of the wires I've yet to completely remove:
This shows my breather and my air filter I plan to use, just need to get the adapter from the same place MAzdatrucking.com has linked in his 5200 page for the airfilters. This thing cost $21.95 from Autozone and I think the adapter is around $20 from the site. I just don't like the lil square weber type air cleaners:
As you may have read elsewhere already, the only vaccum hose need to go to the carb is from the distributor.
Feel free to ask questions, or make suggestions