Weber issue

I've got most of the fine tuning worked out, I believe...

Its just that my idle is killin' me! My warm-up idle and hot idle is killin' me!

When I warm it up, it will be at like 1250rpm. As it keeps warming up it will steadily get up to 2k rpm. But sometimes when it warms up, specifically the first crank over of the day, it will start boggin' down a little then climb back up. I dunno what it is, and as it does this you can feel the engine running rough.

I talked to an auto TA at my school about my carb and he told me the roughness when I warmup is because of my choke. I've adjusted that. Now, when my truck is warmed up, the idle is wwhacked out too! Funny how right when I grab the screwdriver to adjust the idle screw it will stay at a constant 850rpm.

But on the way home from work, it would idle at about 700rpm. Then when I went to open my gate at home, twice it would start dying and right before it dies it goes back up in idle. Its annoying the hell outta me!

Other then that, my carb seems to be running just fine! Could my idle mix screw have anything to do with it? I've tightened before too far and they said not to do that.

The choke is supposed to see 12v or 7v? I have it up to a 7v lead on the alt.

i believe that the alt regulates it to 7v like you said on the choke......
you may not have a good seal where the carb mounts to the intake, take a can of carb cleaner & spray around that base of the carb, if the idle changes you know you have a leak & need to seal it.....other than that, it probably just needs some fine tuning....see if you can get that auto ta to come over one morning & look at it to see what he thinks

Alright, so I should be good with the voltage on my choke? I figured it may have something to do with the opening and closing of the 'flies.

I have noticed that I do have some lquid coming out between the adpator plates and gaskets. I used sealant because I figured it would be a vacuum leak if I did'nt. I was told that I should redo it but I honestly don't see the problem with it. I guess I'll have to try that! I assume I would be able to skim coat the sides with some sealant to remedy it? Would seem simple enough to work...

This fine tuning crap! Lol. Its getting to me! a couple months in, and I'm still adjusting it! Funny thing how the TA is one of my old friends grandpa too! Feels like I know him, lol! I wonder if he would come over one day... Hmm.

I just read up on the 'net too. I think I'm going to have to check my cable also and check for binding. I wonder if I could 3-in-1 oil it? They also recommended checking my dist. and the advance on it. Other then that, they said it is the carb. But the thing is new! So looks like I've got some trials ahead of me...

Another thing, correct me if I'm wrong; The fast idle speed is only used when the cam is engaged and this is when you are engaging the choke, right? So by this you are adjusting the rpm as the engine is warming up, right?

And, I think I may be right about this; You loosen your choke spring the colder it is, and tighten it the hotter it is. (Weather) Seems obvious but even then, sometime my choke has'nt engaged in the cold even after a few hours of sitting.

i think your about right on most of it, with the exception of the skim coating of the carb flange, it would be better to pull the carb & use a good sealant & reinstall it......

Where did you hook up the choke power supply?
To the back of alternator or a switched +12V?
The choke may not be fully opening up.
What type of weber carb?

Edit:
I just noticed that you hooked it to the back of the alternator.
That source may not be enough to operate the weber choke element.
Try another switched 12V like the one from the ignition coil positive terminal.

There was a clip connector from the alt. that was an exact fit to my chokes wiring. The connector from the alt. is said to be for the tachometer or anything of the likes. It said it was a 7volt source so I recalled hearing that its all the choke needed.

What do you mean by switched? If it's not opening I all the way it might not be becuase of me waiting long enough. I usually sit there for about 10 min. before I blip the throttle to dis-engage the choke...

My carb is a 32/36 DGEV, I think. Could you give me some more in depth info. about hooking it up to the coil then? Not sure what you are talking about. I thought the choke needed power to just open up and the heat from engine heats the coil of the choke? I'm not sure how it works, lol.

I used high-temp sealant on the gaskets but my dad said to just put on a thin layer of sealant. Might be the problem?

So I think I know how to better describe my problem now. Today as I was opening my gate again to park my truck, I noticed that it started dying again. I looked at the exhaust because I could see that it was a black hue to it. It started dying and then idled fine after running rough for a bit. After that, it ran steady. So, I'm thinking that it is'nt necessarily my choke but something else?

I thought it may be some build-up of fuel somewhere and then when its not so flooded anymore it runs fine? Cause if I have a vacuum leak from the gaskets it should be lean and not blow black smoke? I'm confused now...

bump