2.2 to 2.0 head swap

Howdy all, I'm new here.

Been reading about the advantages of putting a B2000 head on a B2200. I like what I've read but what is the deal with the cam? Do I want the B2000 cam or should I use the B2200 cam in the 2.0 head? Can that be swapped out?

I wouldn't believe most of the stuff that gets posted on here, unless it comes from someone who can post photos to show what he/she is talking about. I have a 2.0 head, on a 2.2 block. It was leftover from a short-block upgrade, so it got used. I got rid of the mechanical rockers as an adjustment aggravation as soon as I could. It's a direct bolt up, but you have to use the correct head gasket, depending on what you are trying to do. That is just an example. Six people on here will probably have 15 opinions, depending on what their "leet buddy" down the street says.

I don't think there is any real difference between the 8 valve head, no matter which engine it is bolted to. You get a little difference if you use mechanical lifters, versus hydralic lifters, but I really doubt you are going to notice anything unless you are planning to run a high-reving application. Valve float is not a day-to-day problem. 3 angle valve jobs, high-lift cams, and heavy duty springs are kind of a waste of money on sub 100 horsepower engines.

If you are going to use one lifter versus another, use the cam that it is supposed to use. There may be a different profile between them.

One thing that could make a difference; both engines (FE/F2) use an 86 mm piston. The FE is flat on the top, versus concave (dished). Use that instead of the stock piston in the F2. That will provide you with a true performance increase. Minimal, but true.

Thanks MazdaTweaker, a grain of salt, right?

My b2200 blew a head gasket and finding the best deal for a new head (if the other doesn't pass inspection) might be from a b2000.

It seems that because the displacement is different between the two engines that I would need to keep the original cam. This is what I am unclear about. Are the cams different or the same? I'm not swapping the heads for the performance, but I'll take it if it's there. But if I need to keep the original cam, I think I can get a better deal on a head w/o the cam.

I still have to take my head to the shop to see if they can recondition it, which is about $150. Otherwise they'll hook me up w/ a new one for almost $500. But I can get a b2000 head w/ mechanical lifters for almost half that, with the cam.

Has anyone done a straight swap without changing the cams?

Appreciatto
CW

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The head on the 2.0 and the 2.2 is the same head no difference. Were the difference comes in is the block and crank stroke.

Now You can run a 2.0 (manual) lifter setup on ether block with no mods just bolt it up. But you CAN NOT run the 2.2 lifters(hydraulic) on the 2.0 block with out mods. The oil regulator in the block will not let enough oil to the head to work the 2.2 lifters. You will have to drill it out some to get the 2.2 lifters to work on the 2.0 block.

Now to the cams the cams have the same lift and duration. the difference between the 2.2 cam and the 2.0 is the 2.0 has more of a run up to prevent chatter. so if you gone use the 2.2 lifters then use the 2.2 cam. If your gone use the 2.0 lifters use the 2.0 cam. Now I'm using the 2.0 lifters but did not use my 2.0 cam and the truck runs good (I have carb troubles) but it has a lot of chatter. I plan to rering my truck soon at that time I will use the 2.0 cam. by the way I have a 92 B2200 and a 86 B2000 .

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Wow, great stuff. I'm eating it up.

If I was to put a 2.0 head on the 2.2 block (retaining the manual lifters and cam from the 2.0) should I use a 2.0 gasket? Is it necessary w/ a 2.2 motor?

I hope you don't mind all these little questions, I'm trying to get it done right the first time, as I don't have a shop or garage to work in.



I've heard people say that the hydraulic lifters aren't as efficient as they should be and so the trend is to switch back to manual. MT, you seem to be the rebel. I can see not having to bother with adjusting valves, but my concern is with the valve clatter. It drives me nuts. Constantly fearing that the engine is going towards certain doom.

MT, do you have this noise problem? Do you have a remedy? Is it a big deal? Should I take your advice and not believe your advice about believing what gets posted here?

Thanks
CW

This has all been very educational(serious talk).However the point missed is that ALL Mazdas after they reach about 100k miles will rattle on start up.The mechanical lifters do because they are supposed to .The hydraulics do because after 100 k or so their teeny-tiny ports get varnish,sludge,etc in them and they just dont pump up as they should.I have a 2600i with a brand new head and valve train and IT rattles if I dont start it for 2-3 days.IF The truck rattles bad after u reach operating temp u probably have a significant problem and u should tear the head down and rebuild it.If it stops rattling after it gets warmed up,u have a Mazda Bseries.Leave the damn thing alone.,it has earned the right to be annoying.Run a Mazda filter or a Wix filter as they have the valve that keeps oil from draining back into the crankcase and that seems to help.Run a good low viscosity oil like a 5w-30 if u dont have oil burning issues.That seems to help some as well.Crank the truck every day even if u r not going to drive it and that even helps.And then listen to MT or the others for tech help on 2000 heaDS VERSUS 2200 heads etc as they seem to know what they are talking about.BJ

On the "Performance cam on ebay" thread. NYTRDR24 wrote:


I'm taking my head out anyway to replace the gasket, and I want to have the shop check it. If I need to replace it, then I'll go with a 2.0 head because it sounds like it is more durable. And I want to everything I can to prolong the next engine teardown.

I'm not doing this because there's nothing on TV. lol.

Thanks for the wisdom.
CW