Q for the 32/36 Weber Guys

-How long did your carb take to put in?

-How much of a difference in fuel consumption is there?

-Did you have to tune it at all?

-Any problems so far?

Thanks. J/w, i get mine in a week or so.

It took me just a few hours. The only tuning I had to do was the electric choke (even though mine dosen't work for some reason) and the air/fuel mixture. However, that is if you buy the kit. If you buy the carb by itself you will have to take it all apart and ajust it all yourself (like the float level, and other ajustments). With the kit, it is all pre ajusted for you. As far as fuel consumption, I have not noticed a difference. I like it a lot so far; it is very sensitive when you press on the gas.

Check out my weber carb techie. The throttle response is definitely very sensitive. If you are not out in the freezing cold like I was, it should only take a couple hours to install the carb. 3 at the most when you include removing stock stuff and your tuning.

I put mine in, in the cold. I could'nt tell you if it has given me better gas mileage cause I also had 350 pounds in the truck as well 24/7! I also had to warm it up every morning too!

With mine, I had to change my primary idle jet to a 50 instead of the 55 that was in there. It will be based on many factors.

Tuning your carb is going to take you a while to get that sweet spot. It took me a few months!

On the other hand, the power it gives to our engine is very impressive compared to the stock!

i just put a weber on my truck yesterday. it took about 4 hours, and i'm pretty inexperienced at these things. i bought the kit and it made things nice and easy, not to mention that you get a brand new carb. all i had to do was adjust the idle and mixture, which was very simple with the written instructions. it sure was nice to rip out all of those vacuum hoses and the huge air filter assembly. now it's spacious and clean under the hood, and the truck runs beautifully. no doubt in my mind that this was the way to go.

took me about an hour including adjustments. i am a mechnic though so i have dont this stuff many times before but MAKE SURE you locktight everything and yes my milage went up a bit

3 hours on the swap-most of that futzing with fabbing a cruise adapter.Mine ran fine with no tuning,mileage went up about 2-3 mpg but throttle respnse is MUCH better.I kept all my pollution crap intact in case it did not pass inspection-all I will need to do is swap the carbs back-pass inspection and then pull that crappy Nikki back off.Two more years and I get to pass on the inspection altogether.BJ

Ok so ive got some questions as to what i can keep and what i cannot keep.

I was at my buddies house today ripping it apart. To my understanding you could take the computer TOTALLY out, so i did, and cut all the wires to it. now i also cut most of the wires going to the carb. my horn doesn't work now, and thats the only thing ive realized that doesn't work. hopefully its the only thing. i never use my horn anyway.

There is a 2 wires going to the alternator. one is red, one is black. I think the black is for the electric choke? im i correcT? The other one goes to the top of the intake manifold.

There was this little piece that kind of had the shape of a fuel pump that was inside of my passenger fender and it said "arrow" or something like that on the top of it. it has 3 outputs, and smells like gas. i took it off. whats it supposed to do? should it be on?

if anyone can give me some help itd be much appreciated. thanks guys n girls.

TTT..To.The.motherfukkinTop.

The black canister on ur passenger side fenderwell is a charcoal canister that took fumes from the tank filtered them thru charcoal and circulated them into ur carb to be burned.If not too late u probably need to leave this intact or u run the risk of having fuel smell in ur truck.If that doesnt bother u then take it out.BJ

Actually that piece your pointing to in MY picture, LOL, is the high alt. sensor! It is apart of emissions, so you can rip that out too. The big black canister next to the battery is the charcoal canister.

I've been told that when you rip out the computer, everything will be fine, except your windshield wipers. Those are ran through the comp. So you will have to re-hardwire it to your fuse block.