Tips for installing Weber carb?

Well my Weber showed up today,a beautiful 32/36 DGEV unit.

For those of you that have previously installed Webers,is there anything I should be watching out for,or anything I should know? This looks like it's going to be a fairly fiddly and time consuming job for me to tackle.

Thx

This almost gives me a reason to add an install to my techie!

Major things to look for is:
1. The adaptor plat for the intake needs to be filed down for the PCV valve hose. When you put it on, you will know!
2. When you install your gaskets, get Permatex gasket shellac. It does'nt harden, and will not dissolve with petroleum.
3. Use loctite threadlocker!

Just follow the instructions they gave you, and refer to my techie section for further assistance! It should'nt take very long at all! It really is an easy swap...

The tuning is going to be the most time consuming!

Yeah the instructions note about filing down that part.

I was curious about the vacuum lines coming off the exhaust manifold into the air cleaner box,so I've held off installing the carb. I'm picking up a Pacesetter header,so this way all my vacuum lines and emissions junk can be tossed and have a nice clean install and engine bay.

I have to get it installed soon because the truck is still running like crap.

As long as you can cap them off somehow, you will be okay. I had some spark plugs from my dads boat that I stuck on. It really don't matter what it is, as long as it plug those suckers up! I had them unplugged one day when I was getting my exhaust done and it definitely sounded like an old datsun! LOL!

Comments about my Weber K675 kit for Mazda B2200 1988 (Weber 32/36 DGEV)

Buy some extra 5/32 inch vacuum hose for stuff like the distributor vacuum advance, and some vacuum block-off caps (or use vacuum hose and golf tees).

Instructions detailed a 6mm hex/allen key being required for the adapter screws; actually, it was a 5mm hex key required, and I cut down a 5mm L-shaped hex key with a hacksaw to use in my 5mm socket so I could use my torque wrench to get 12 ft-lb of torque like the instructions stated.

Bottom adapter plate needs to be ground away around the intake manifold PCV inlet, best if a bench grinder is available; there is a picture showing this, why couldn’t manufacturer just take care of this?
I replaced the brittle, hard PCV tubing with 3/8 inch fuel line.

The supplied carb mounting studs are too long (they are the same length as those removed from the intake manifold). A shorter one is needed for the rear right location to have clearance to get the nut on; I had to cut one shorter for that spot. I’d also advise installing the studs BEFORE mounting the top adapter, there’s no other way to make sure that they don’t get installed too deeply.

The top adapter plate could go in either of two orientations as it’s not symmetrical. I still don’t know which way is correct, not shown instructions.

I’d recommend using the 12mm head nuts from the Mazda to mount the carb itself, as the supplied ones have a 13mm head (the threads are the same). This will provide more clearance for tightening. These 12mm head nuts are available from Japanese vehicle parts counters or as JIS nuts at places like Ace Hardware.

The instructions did not mention how to mount the return spring at the bottom; it turns out that there was an almost-oval bracket with two holes included for mounting in the place where the dashpot was, but no mention of the bracket was in the instructions. It's actually better to mount it on the rearmost EGR valve bolt.

One side of the two air cleaner clamps for the rear need to be ground down a little so that they seat fully into the bottom groove; if not, they will hit the carb itself.

There should have been a right-angle adapter for the crankcase ventilation hose; the supplied one points down, making it difficult to attach to the valve cover outlet because of the bends required. I used a brass right-angle 3/8 tubing fitting and 15/32 smog hose for this; I saw in a photo of a kit online where a right-angle adapter is shown. The hole in the air cleaner bottom was just a pinch too small for the supplied adapter anyway, so I had to ream the hole a little larger.

Instructions should’ve stated to re-route the choke wire more to the front of the engine so that no extension to the wire would be needed.

I added a L-shaped bracket to the supplied accelerator cable bracket for my add-on Audiovox cruise control. I ‘broadenedâ€