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Mazda Engine General \  Deleting EGR stuff

Deleting EGR stuff

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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1dayiwill   +1y
I want to delete all my egr stuff. I live in florida and there are no emissions tests. What all do I need to do? I want to run my stock carb with like an edelbrock air filter kit from autozone or something to just sit on top of the carb. I hate those damn reed valve things and lines and i dont see a point in having egr in my truck since I could use the little bit of extra power anyway cause I haul shit like my motorcycle and lumber a lot.
Any input will help.
Thanks, Ian
mazdatweaker   +1y
post deleted
Post was last edited on May 14, 2009 06:05. This post has been edited 1 times.
1dayiwill   +1y
i said i live in fl where there are no emission laws man.
hocbj23   +1y
Uh dude,the emissions laws are FEDERAL in origin-the states just enforce them or not.So as Tweaker was pointing out,u need to be careful when u start ripping things out that ur ride can meet standards if it has to.I am running a Weber carb,a mildly modified engine with a Magnaflow secondary cat and Flowmaster muffler and my truck WILL pass emissions.The stock Maz fuel management system(I hate to call that abortion a carb) was designed to work with the reed valves,etc.so ripping them out and retaining the stock Nikki will positively ensure that you cant pass an emissions test and ur truck will run like crap as well.Capeche?Not trying to be a smart ass but just trying to save u some grief and so was Tweaker.BJ
1dayiwill   +1y
Why will it run like crap?
hocbj23   +1y
Because the Maz fuel management system in stock form is a closed loop system which means fuel,fumes from the tank, both fresh and recycled air and some exhaust gasses all feed into the carb AND exhaust to ensure an acceptable level of unburned hydocarbons,(pollution).When u remove the reed valves and other pollution equipment,there are still sensors like an 02 sensor,etc that detect faulty readings and start telling the stock carb(?) to continually adjust mixture based on the faulty reading.Therefore idle problems,stumbling problems on acceleration,even worse fuel mileage and typically a very rich mixture leading to clogged cats and fouled plugs often result.If u think that u can just disable all the sensors,think again as when u do,everything defaults to a "limp home" mode and the truck will barely run.That do it for ya?A Weber carb or a Holley 5400 and slightly modified exhaust is an open system (air in the top,exhaust out the ass) that can be manually adjusted to richen or lean out the mixture so the truck can pass emissions.Even with a modified engine I sill run an 02 sensor and recycle tank fumes and my truck gets 4mpg better mileage than the stock system and engine and passes Tennessee emissions testing.It also runs a sub-10 second 1/8th mile.Class dismissed.BJ
1dayiwill   +1y
good stuff, thanks. where is the ecu?
Post was last edited on Oct 25, 2007 01:10. This post has been edited 1 times.
1dayiwill   +1y
y will the o2 sensor detect a faulty reading? the o2 sensor just measures the a/f ratio. if i take out all the egr stuff wont it make my carb run as an open loop system sense no recycled air aka exhaust gases will be present in the intake? interesting subject
elbine69   +1y
The only way you can get away with removing all the emissions stuff is by installing a weber or holley carb like hocbj23 said. You can remove the ecu and complete wiring harness that connects to all the emissions stuff when you install a new carb. The ecu is under the kick panel on the passenger side.
twisted minis   +1y
I'm going to school for this right now.

I probably wouldn't remove the EGR valve if you are keeping the stock carburetor. The EGR valve helps with cold starts, and also helps to warm the air/fuel mixture before it enters the combustion chamber which provides more fuel efficiency, and will decrease the chance of spark plug failure. It doesn't really decrease power. However there is a lot of other stuff you don't need. All I would leave on the engine is the EGR and the cold start heating system that pumps hot air into the intake until your motor gets to operating temperature. It works with the EGR valve, in a sense.

But if you swap to a Weber, you can remove pretty much everything. Its also a more efficient carburetor.