Wont start/stay running, I'm pissed...

All that info helps, thanks again guys. For an update, I got a computer out of a junked truck, and my truck fired right up. It still runs badly, and pops through the exhaust. Looks like after Christmas I will be getting a new carb. Kids first, you know.

keep in mind, if you are hearing the fuel pump running i.e. elect pump, you'll probably need a pressure regulator to use with the weber, they only need @ 3.5 - 4 psi to run properly, any more & you'll flood the fuel bowl.
you can get one here along with the carb pretty cheap / reasonable, they have good service before & after the sale too.

'Preciate the tip on that. I wouldn't have thought of that. What pressure does the stock fuel pump put out?

Guess the carb bolts right onto the manifold also?

Looks like: B2000 11/84-93 2.0 TEK 675 - - Is what I need. Now to convince the wife.

The Weber K675 kit includes adapter for the manifold.
Comments about Weber K675 kit for Mazda B2200 1988 (Weber 32/36 DGEV) that I installed (2005):

Buy some extra 5/32 inch vacuum hose for stuff like the distributor vacuum advance, and some vacuum block-off caps (or use vacuum hose and golf tees).

Instructions detailed a 6mm hex/allen key being required for the adapter screws; actually, it was a 5mm hex key required, and I cut down a 5mm L-shaped hex key with a hacksaw to use in my 5mm socket so I could use my torque wrench to get 12 ft-lb of torque like the instructions stated.

Bottom adapter plate needs to be ground away around the intake manifold PCV inlet, best if a bench grinder is available; there is a picture showing this, why couldn’t manufacturer just take care of this?
I replaced the brittle, hard PCV tubing with 3/8 inch fuel line.

The supplied carb mounting studs are too long (they are the same length as those removed from the intake manifold). A shorter one is needed for the rear right location to have clearance to get the nut on; I had to cut one shorter for that spot. I’d also advise installing the studs BEFORE mounting the top adapter, there’s no other way to make sure that they don’t get installed too deeply.

The top adapter plate could go in either of two orientations as it’s not symmetrical. I still don’t know which way is correct, not shown instructions.

I’d recommend using the 12mm head nuts from the Mazda to mount the carb itself, as the supplied ones have a 13mm head (the threads are the same). This will provide more clearance for tightening. These 12mm head nuts are available from Japanese vehicle parts counters or as JIS nuts at places like Ace Hardware.

The instructions did not mention how to mount the return spring at the bottom; it turns out that there was an almost-oval bracket with two holes included for mounting in the place where the dashpot was, but no mention of the bracket was in the instructions. It's actually better to mount it on the rearmost EGR valve bolt.

One side of the two air cleaner clamps for the rear need to be ground down a little so that they seat fully into the bottom groove; if not, they will hit the carb itself.

There should have been a right-angle adapter for the crankcase ventilation hose; the supplied one points down, making it difficult to attach to the valve cover outlet because of the bends required. I used a brass right-angle 3/8 tubing fitting and 15/32 smog hose for this; I saw in a photo of a kit online where a right-angle adapter is shown. The hole in the air cleaner bottom was just a pinch too small for the supplied adapter anyway, so I had to ream the hole a little larger.

Instructions should’ve stated to re-route the choke wire more to the front of the engine so that no extension to the wire would be needed.

I added a L-shaped bracket to the supplied accelerator cable bracket for my add-on Audiovox cruise control. I ‘broadenedâ€

cusser = awesome.

any other issues on installation that weren't covered? wow.

you payfor shipping i will send you a carb for free it come off a 90 b2200

no prob! i'd have to check my manual, but most everyone that just swaps carb for carb don't usually run a press regulator, yours having the pump & it being an ext cab, carb'd the pressure should be @ the same as one w/o, where you have to worry is if yours was/is a fuelie, the pressure on those is slightly higher than the others....

cusser did a mighty fine writeup, and highlighted some of the small issues with the swap.....

they have 3 kits, the 675 has the 32/36 which has the elect choke
the 34/34, and it is a manual choke, so you'll have to install a manual choke line...and the 38 outlaw, it is an elect choke too.....all are good carbs, it's just picking the one that is right for your application, and if you follow their suggestions on that site, it will help you out, if you still have q's, call the guys up @ the shop & they will be able to answer them for ya.