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Mazda Engine General \  Rebuilding 2.2L

Rebuilding 2.2L

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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replies 7
following 8
 
devb22   +1y
I am getting the engine rebuilt this month, just wondering if there is anything I need to know or anything I should do.

Its getting rebuilt locally at a VERY reputable engine shop..

Thanks in advance!



Dev
1lob2k   +1y
are you wanting performance or reliability?
hex0rz   +1y
Well, if you can beat $1200 for a rebuild with a good reputation, good!

Not much to knowing or doing if your getting it rebuilt by a shop. Lol..

They will do a quality job if they are reputable!

Just make sure that they:

1. Prime the engine.

2. Have an oil pan gasket on, with the black sealant.

These are the only two things I would be concerned about when getting it back. Because if its not primed and you fire up the engine, you could very well seize it! Not having an oil pan gasket installed and the shop just using sealant for a "gasket" is something that if I were you, not want to deal with 6 months down the road!

Not much to it really!
dirtracer14   +1y
I found the last one i did i didnt use sealer on the front main seal.....it popped out the first real cold day we started it. Other than that no big stuff....i went with a new head so no worries on that end
texaslowlife {john}   +1y
I rebuits mine and it ended up cousting me 3,000 bucks but eveything is new and its the last thing i will have to worry about now just got to get it to look how i want.
Cusser   +1y
I sealed my oil pan a few years ago and was told by a Mazda dealership mechanic NOT to use a gasket there, just to use a certain gray sealant. I' haven't had any problems (or any leaks). He did specify factory gasket for valve cover and O-ring for distributor.
juicedmazda   +1y
i rebuilded mine back in feb cost me about 900 bucks every thing new but the rods and crank bord 20 over and shaved head and block
nytrdr24   +1y
make sure they check the cylinders for scoring, at the least have them honed. also check the block & head for any cracking, cylinder alignment, and have the mains & cam landings line honed & checked for straight. also have the head & block mating surfaces checked for straight, if not have them decked & shaved (note follow factory specs here, don't take too much off as there is only so much the factory timing belt tensioner can take up w/o having timing belt issues) if re-using any parts, have them checked i.e. rods, rod bolts, head bolts etc for excessive wear.......I wouldn't go more than 30 over on the cylinders....i would spend the extra $$ for good main bearings & rings, i know fel-pro offers a rebuild kit for the engine, check e-bay or at the local parts store.....also have them check the valve guides for excessive wear, get good valve seals....check the valve springs for excessive wear & replace if necessary...

those are my couple deffinates to do on any rebuild, also as i said before get quality parts, don't rush the shop, they are just like the rest of us working stiffs and can only do a quality job so fast, if you get rushed, the more likely you are to mess up....

anywhoo, let us know how it turns out!
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