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Mazda Lowering Static \  Help. Setting up my ride height and pinion.

Help. Setting up my ride height and pinion.

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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dimotorsports   +1y
Please help.
I am through installing my four link and am now ready to hang my bag brackets, but I am having a problem with the ride height. Currently I am using a triangulated 4 link (2 forward and 2 reverse), a monster notch, 2600 Contitech bags in an over the axle set up on my 89 B2200 std cab short bed. I plan to run a 17" wheel w/ 205/40's. The problems I am having are these:

Where should I set ride height in order to get the best ride?

What amount of air pressure will it take to acheive this height?

Should I just drop the frame to the ground and tack up the brackets with the bag fully collasped, or set ride height and weld in the brackets at this setting?

and

What problems will I encounter now that my pinion angle changes with the height or drop of the suspension due to the 4 link set up with 2 forward and 2 reverse (concerning bag stretching / twisting / etc.)?

Now here's the catch...
The cab and bed are off the frame since this project is frame up, so pressures in the bag will increase to keep the same height once the weight of these items are applied.

My concern for all these questions is being able to lay frame after it's all tacked up. I'd hate to spend all this time setting it up one way only to find out I can't lay it out or the ride really sux.

Thanks for everything.
dimotorsports   +1y
bump.

PLEASE HELP.
paul42   +1y
Alright I can help you a little. truck laying frame. When you go to set your bag mounts set them with 3 inches between them. This is the height of a bag compressed. This way you do not waste air inflating your bags until it starts to lift the vehicle and you will get max lift. It also allows for a ride height with lower pressure which is a smoother ride.
mullet   +1y
yeah.. use bag completely inflated... and bag completely deflated to measure how much travel you have.. but i usually do that even before i do the notch or 4 link.. because i don't want the axel hitting the frame, nor do i want wasted lift due to not properly measuring bag extension and deflation.
Mike
mark   +1y
yes set the the bag mounts up where the bag is deflated and the frame lays on the ground, but this will require the correct wheel/tire combo you are going to run, so if u dont have the wheels and tires yet it's best to get those measurements and apply them into how you will setup the bag mounts


about the 4link, do u have adjustable end links?

and i honestly wouldn't worry about your ride height's pressure, you will find that out once u get the truck on the road

right now worry about laying frame and setting your pinion correctly at a chosen area of lift, then when you get the body on and stuff, lift it back to that "area" and that will be your "ride height pressure"
dimotorsports   +1y
Thanks for the info.
I did install my bag brackets this past Friday.
I drop'd her in the dirt, accounted for wheel/tire size and tacked them up.

Now after reading numerous posts about a forverse (triangulated 4link w/ 2 forward and 2 reverse) configuration like I had set up for; I learned this is a very bad set up. I now am moving my rear bars forward into a wish bone stlye link. The problem I first encountered was the pinion angle changing severly through the range of motion, but once I researched it, I found out that the forverse set up will unload your suspension under hard braking, cause handing issues, and severe pinion angles. Apparently this is not the best set up. I'd chosen this type because I have seen so many people use it and it appears simple, but I believe the tradeoffs will be worse, so I am flipping my bars.

I'm making a crossmember now for the wishbone, and will be moving to the front next. I've already started cuting bumpstops etc. from the frame up front but still need to bemove the steel on the side of the brame to make room for my bag mounts. Anyone have a good method to remove this? I do not have a plasma of torch. I have however started it with a sawzall, and cut off wheel.
mark   +1y
awesome, keep us posted
blare   +1y
Have fun with the front man. I too only had a sawzall and a 4 inch cutting disk. I figured out a order to cut stuff off that made it easier on that steel hump. Dont try to cut it off as one peice but instead many peices. And watch those fingers.
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