Laying Frame

hey,
wel i finally got my bags, and i am just starting to scope out the task of install, .... first off, any sugestions and/or what not that i should watch out for? second, wil the truck lay frame once the bags are installed? or wil i have to Z the frame( BTW WTF IS A Z FRAME????(LOL)) thnx L888888888888r

all mazdas lay front cross member, and the z frame im not to sure about i think thats a body drop question

it will lay almost all frame cept like an 1/8 of an inch, because the control arm crossmember lays before the very front of the frame does. its pointless to z the frame you cant even tell that it dont lay all the way unless you try to stick something under it. and if anyone says anything about not layin just show em that crossmember. or just be sure to let em hear that front smackin the ground when you set it down haha. as for any suggestions or anything to watch out for...have fun w/that front end lol a mazda isnt the easiest thing to bag up front unlike an s10 which takes about 3 hours to bag up front a mazda is alot more work. and always go by the old carpenters rule...measure TWICE and cut ONCE and everything will work out good. be sure to take the extra time to paint your frame after you get done while you still have the bed off, it makes everything look sooooo much cleaner, and go to pep boys and get you some of that black door trim. it looks 14 shades of gay on the outside of your door, but if you put it around the cuts in your bed and under the hood it makes it allllllooooot cleaner. good luck hope you dont run into many problems!

Z-ing the frame is when you cut your frame, and move it up or down and box in the part where you moved it up or down...
suggestions on bagging your truck: deffinately take the bed off!! that's pretty much step numero uno. also, cut out your inner fenders under the hood and take off your hood and fenders(to remove the fenders you'll need to remove the cowl panel too) it makes things much easier. wish i'd done it the first time i bagged my mazda. i personally LOVE the suicide doors torsion bag mounts, if you have an extra 50 or $60 i'd get them. you may want to flip the ball joints on your control arms too, i hear it gets a couple inches of extra drop, but you need to run bigger than 15 or 16" wheels i guess(i've never done it, i dont know for sure) because too small of a wheel will hit the control arm. you'll need to notch out the lower control arms where they would contact the frame when laying out too.
i don't know what your doing for a rear suspension, whether its a 3 or 4 link, or whatever, but i'd recommend a triangulated 4 link with the bags leverage mounted on the bars, and shocks, with a fuel cell in the back where the spare tire was. you can use another set of torsion bar bag mounts back here too, if you really want to, depending on how close you mount your parallel links to the frame.
when notching your truck, don't just chop out a section and slap a notch in there. be sure to brace it withjack stands, and you could even weld a couple pieces of long tubing in an x pattern so it won't shift and form a diamond instead of a rectangle like the frame's suppoosed to. so it won't sag. what i did was i built my notch outta 2x3 box tubing, and cut a couple holes in the top of the frame, and slid the notch in place and welded it, then gradually cut out the notched section of frame, and welded more until it was complete. you'll probably need to cut out the gas tank crossmember, but replace it with another crossmember or 2 or bridge on the notch, so your frame wont' weaken or twist.
hope this helps with your new fun journey.