SPINDLES or Control Arms...

Are drop spindles and drop control arms necessary to correct camber and allow for a comfortable ride if I use nitro drop shocks? If not, what are some combinations I could use? Using just the spindle/ using just the control arms? I really don't want to adjust the torsion bar if I don't have to. The suspension geometry must be as stock as possible but, nice n low. I may be contradicting myself by saying that I want to go the El Cheapo route. It's a work truck that must be low, look great and possibly with some help ride fantastic. I've got 4" blocks for it already and any info would be greatly appreciated.
MAHALO,
STEW

Id go with the control arms. Camber wont be a problem at all. Just make sure you have it aligned. Always align a vehicle after you raise or lower it any distance. Back in the day I ran the 3" DJM Lower Control arms and had to drive it up on pieces of wood just to get a jack under it.

i've got a brand new set of djm controlarms still in box if interested.pm me and let's try to make a deal

to do it right you should use both

If you want el cheapo, unbolt your balljoints and move them from the bottoms of the control arms to the tops.

On the lower control arm there is a small hump in the stamping that you have to grind or cut off to let the balljoint sit flat on the arm, but moving the lower balljoint to the top of the arm drops you about and inch without changing the shock travel at all. You will also need to cut/grind underneath the arm where the bolts go so you can get them in. Dont worry, its apparent what you have to do once you take the balljoint off.

Moving the upper ball joint to the top of the upper arm corrects camber a lot too. No modifications except you actually have to separate the ball joint from the spindle on this one, which you'd be doing anyway if you got drop spindles.

Win win, doesnt cost a single dime. Spindles move the wheel out about an inch (sucks if you have wheels that barely tuck) and dropped lower control arms cost at least 150 bucks. Granted, either spindles or dropped arms will give you more bolt on drop, but switching the balljoints from the bottoms to the top is free. If you get short shocks, it rides like a caddy just inches off the ground too.

Dont forget to re index the torsions to keep the adjusters from dragging on the ground! Sucks to have one get snagged.

...moved to suspension.

and welcome to the site man, let me know if need any help with the site

finally, russ-d, i wanted to make a post like that for the longest time but i was to lazy to type that much, i start the post but just explain it brefly, that should be a sticky, i think ill be flipping balljoint for nuthinbut cowboy soon, ill take some pics

Here in Hawaii we have strict laws on the modification & reconstruction of vehicles. You risk the vehicle getting impounded. Before the "RECON" permit is obtained, a notorised affidavit must be presented with all parts purchased that are being used on the vehicle. RUSSD, thanks for the info my braddah. I've begun using your advice by flipping the joints and tomorrow will attempt at getting my permit to legally scrape. However, if my B22 Bomber doesn't pass inspection, I'll be trying out Roach25681's solution and work from there. MAHALO for all the support my braddahs,
STEW
P.S. I'm spending all my chips on my MAZDAWG and can't afford that digital camera just yet but, as soon as I get one, I'll be posting pics.