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Mazda Lowering Static \  STOCK FLOOR BODYDROP

STOCK FLOOR BODYDROP

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 11
following 6
 
laydoutb26   +1y
I'm curious about doing a 3-4" stock floor bodydrop on my mazda b2600i. i was thinkin of going all out and doing from engine mounts back, new floor, new 2x3 frame, custom backhalf... but then again i just wanna do it under cab for the ease... what do you all think? also, any pics of stock floors would be greatly appreciated because i still don't understand on how to do it completely. i know you gotta lose frame height, drop cab mounts, and drop the radiator support to match... but there has to be more then that... ANY HELP? THANKS!!!
grounded2200   +1y
go to and find the mazda truck section. there is a post i started that asks the same questions you are asking there is some info there.
gravity5   +1y
figure on making a drivesahft tunnel at the back of the cab, getting the exhaust redone might be a necessity, and you still have to cut the floor a little bit for the tranny. Not to mention you will not get 4 inches out of a stockfloor, that is for sure.
impulse   +1y
yeah I think i've got about 3" with the stock floor. And im in the middle of building a new floor to make up for the rest.
gravity5   +1y
Not to mention you are better off with 3x3 or 2x4, it does make a significant strength increase over 2x3.
impulse   +1y
2x3 is still more than sufficient. Hot rod guys use some pretty thin shit and they've got tons of power goin thru their rides and they are fine.

My rear rails for instance are pretty damn thin, but tons of muscle guys with HUGE power use them without issue.

Just make sure you've got x-members and what not and think about how the forces are going to be applied to the frame.
gravity5   +1y
I wont get into a metalurgy argument, all I will say is 2x3 is absolute minimum, at least .188 wall(3/16), It might be strong enough to physically support it, but it will flex more than a slightly larger size....I just prefer to overengineer stuff...AND I AM NOT SAYING FOR A SECOND THAT YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING< OR ARE NOT GOOD AT IT. I just like to have extra built in just in case.
impulse   +1y


im far from trying to get into an arguement.. haha.

im using 2x3 (3/16 wall) except for my rear rails with are thinner wall.

I wouldn't use anything less than 2x3 though, i'll agree with you on that for sure!

over engineering is always a good idea, but its not always necessary.

Everything depends on the application and how it is put together.
gravity5   +1y
Agreed on that, I just always assume in the futre I will either add more power , or drive it harder, or maybe tow with it....And yeah .120 wall should be fine for a rear clip, as the stock frames on some trucks are that thin, as long as it has proper bracing, gusseting, and reinforcements at the key stress points....
southernrazed   +1y
yep yep 2x3 is more than you wil ever need like impulse said...ive seen 750hp hot rods with 2x3 back half.. its all how its designed