Static Drop?

Alright so ive read sooo much about doing drops and what not... but i want to go sick, sick and cheap. So i need some help, how low can you go? Right now im thinking of getting the 5" dropblocks, but i cant find anywhere that has them... I was just given, GIVEN, a 1986 B-2000, by a man i hardly know... so if you guys could give me a little insight, it would be most appriciated...

AIM has the 5 inch blocks. I would order the notches from suicide doors for the rear also mono leaf it keep just the large spring and the overload spring thats the rear

for the front crank the torsion bars all the way cut out the bump stops and flip your ball joints also trim out your lower control arm around the part that mounts to the frame this way when you go to bag it it wont rub or bind on you. run small tires on some stocks or some 16 inch eski wheels and you'll be low as f(&ck.

any other questions just ask bro thats what this site is for !!!

5" drop blocks....NOOOOOOO that is bloody dangerous, I hate drop blocks alltogether although if a customer asked the most I would install is a 2". And get the good ones belltech, the cheap ones are just that cheap, and dangerous. Also you can get your leafs dearched, or take a couple leafs outta the pack.... And as for the front shorter shocks are a must, cut out the bumpstops is also a must, and the whole mount for them too.....and you will want to notch the rear. And keep in mind the on mazdas when they are static'd really low they have a tendency to pull out torsion barsover speedbumps and whatnot, so keep a pair of spare torsion bolts handy.

I don't know your idea of cheap,but my plans are to static drop my truck and I am planning to use Toxic drop shocks, Belltech lowering leaf packs and either AIM drop spindles or DJM 3" control arms and run 15" Pathfinder rims with probably a 55 or 50 profile tire.

All those suspension bits are putting me in the range of around $550 US. Those parts do it right and do it safe. When it comes to your suspension,don't do things half assed,because that's your safety and your ass riding on the line,as well as the potential to ruin your truck as gravity5 is trying to point out. If you want to drive the truck daily and have it totally slammed with a static drop,you're going to have a real hard time going anywhere.

I was thinking the same thing as ^^^... Cheap is not best. I drove my first mazda pretty low until I ripped out a torsion bar that bent the torsion bar cross member so bad I couldnt put it back it. So I just drove it on the bottomed out shocks until I eventually dragged thru the control arm and the bolt fell out.

I won a lowest truck trophy one time with no air against another mazda that laid frame with air. It was determined I won by 3/4" because I had dragged off that much of the frame. lol

cheaper isn't always the best bet for sure....what you want to accomplish all depends on what kind of $$ your willing to invest & what kind of skills & tools you have to accomplish the job. with out any major modifications you can take some leafs out of the spring pack in the rear (run a lowering block if you wish, but i wouldn't suggest anything over a 2" or 3" max), & crank down the torsion bars in the front (i would suggest re-indexing them too) & getting a set of toxic or bell tech shocks atleast.
now if you have the means to go further, a notch in the rear, removing the bumpstops in the front & relocating the shock tower are also options to consider....along with either the control arms or spindles or both....you'll only be able to flip the balljoints if you run a 16" wheel or bigger with out problems. good luck & welcome to the b-scene!

i went the same route that you want to go and here is what i did i bought lowering control arms from Stylinconcepts.com like 250.00 with shipping and flipped the ball joints. that got me 4 inches in the front without touching the torsions. after that was in i then adjusted the torsions and got brought it down another inch or so. i also installed toxic Drop shocks and cut the ball joint mounts off completely so that the ride quality would not suffer so much.

what you can do in teh front and it costs less is cut your ball joint mounts and take load off the torsions. if you do this i would definatly recomend that u install the drop shocks because your ride will be bumpy as hell and the stock shocks suck, you can get the toxic drop shocks from Stylinconcepts.com i would call and order them so u know u r getting the right ones. they r a good investment and only 30 a piece, they have the rear ones too and they make a world of difference.

in the back i cut the springs and used the big leaf with the over load (which is the short bottom one) and i used a 2 inch block, i also cut the bump stops down to right above the U-bolts. you might be able to use a three inch block but you need to worry about ur shock mounts dragging. i ran into that problem using a 4 inch block with a stock spring, my mounts were dragging and it messed up my shocks.

the last thing you can do that is cheap is get some low profile tires. the six spoke chrome pathfinder rims look nice with a 195/50 R15 but if u use a block in the rear you can not go any bigger then three in my opinion i used a 4 with those rims and the shock mounts were maybe and inch and a half off the ground, that is how i messed up the shock mounts, damn roads and their uneven-ness.

any questions you can look me up on cardomain.com 1991 b2200 "Mazderati" is my car's name i took photos of just about everything.

in the front you couldnt have cut the ball joint mounts off. your spindle would have nothign to mount to therefore you would have no front wheels..... did you mean you cut out the bumpstop mounts .......

^^^ must have, cause he lost me on that one too....