threads
Page 1 of 1
Mazda Lowering Static \  Bag valve questions...

Bag valve questions...

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
views 586
replies 8
following 3
 
watt   +1y
I have been looking at almost every thread on bagging but i still have quite a few questions.....dumb ones might i add too. I kinda have a understanding of how the whole system works and whatnot but i wanted to know why you would need 8 vavles? one at each bag and 4 somewhere else? lol. and what would make a setup be considered f.b.s.s. compared to front and back? would that also be less switches? and how does the compressor work?...is that where the pressure switch comes into play on determining when it should come on?i also wanted to know how the lines are ran..is there a diagram somewhere or something? what is the purpose of a check valve? and is that what 4 of the 8 vavles be? are they mounted by the tank or it doesnt matter?

Im lost when it all comes to that.
phatkix   +1y
i'll try to help ya, although im really really bad at explaining technical stuff. correct me if i boo boo'd any where.

everyone was a noob at sometime
sudkrap   +1y
alright.... You dont need 8 valves.., you can use 4, or maybe 2, ive never heard of 2 tho..., you need 2 for each side or bag, one for air into the bag, and one for air out of the bag.. f.b.s.s. is front back side side. and that is more switches.. (What about the compresser do you want to know, like the internal parts and how it works? how its wired? where it goes? etc... included in the air system is a pressure switch, most of the time in the tank, that through a system of wiring your compresser using selenoid(s) will automatically turn the compresser on and off..... there are endless ways to run the air line, i will try to get some diagrams up for you.... you should put a check valve after your compresser, and on the line to your bag. check valves are "one way valves" that prevent air from leaking bag through your comp. and valves...

Hope that helps a little, feel free to ask more questions, and ill try to upload some diagrams! good luck
sudkrap   +1y
Some links, (hope they work)..


Air comp wiring



This is a front back setup



f.b.s.s.


fbi rides intalling guides
watt   +1y
Yeah i guess i should have specified on what i wanted to know on a compressor. i wanted to know if i only runs when the truck is on or if it just randomly kicks on when the tank gets low.

I think i would just want front and back, so for example for the front i could use only one lift and one dump and then runs the lines to both front bags? how are the valves wired up? i think understand how the valves work and stuff now for the most part.

See i was thinking of just static dropping it but i am leaning to not static dropping it and just save up for bags and do it. I am just going through all the old threads from oldest to newest to educate myself.

Is there an advantage to having more ports on the tank?

Thanks for the explanations btw.
sudkrap   +1y
With adjustable, obvioulsy you can raise on demand, and it looks way cooler slammed, my opinion, ride quality is a little better if your on air unless your static is done right...

with the valves, you have two wires off the valves, one ground, and one goes to the rocker switch, ( usually on a 2 way rocker/toggle switch you have a fused hot wire from battery to the center pole, and 2 poles that go to the valve)

(sorry if i made ^^ that confusing)

if you want to do front back, your air line should run like this.. tank --> to in-valve --> front bags + gauge --> out valve. Just throw a t fitting between the in valve and bags. repeat for rear..

I ran my compresser off a toggle so my truck didnt have to be on, but if it wasnt running for a while it would kill the battery

the ports doesnt really matter, as long as you have "enough". some people run valves right off the tank, but some run them closer to you bag for faster lift.. just make sure you have a port for each : line in from comp., pressure switch, and line to front valves, and lne to back valves, (atleast that is how i ran it

and also to be safe, you will want to run a moisture trap between your tank and compressor so no water gets in the system, which leads to rust, and maybe freezing
sudkrap   +1y


I meant if my truck hadnt been running, (so i could recharge the battery) and i left my air comp on like overnight, my battery would die..
watt   +1y
I really do think that I am going to bag it instead of static. I think I might get stuck in my drive way if I had a low static. well not really but that will be my other excuse. so a 4 port tank would be just enough ports for a front and back setup?

I definatly figured a moisture trap was a good idea.

So there would be a switch inside the truck to turn the compressor on and off?
sudkrap   +1y
You wire it were ever you want.. When looking at the fbirides link on air compresser wiring, i did the same thing but i went from battery, to circuit breaker/fuse, to toggle, to pressure switch, to selenoid.. Its kinda a pain in the arse, but thats how i did it..
Page 1 of 1