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Mazda Lowering Static \  some dropping advise

some dropping advise

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 6
following 6
 
maz22   +1y
ok guys so I read a couple of pages on the supension forum and I got mixed ideas so this is my plan on dropping my truck,I'm going to crank the torsoin bars and put 3" or 4" blocks in the back, I would like to know some of your opinions on this.............Thanks..............
toddluck   +1y
get after market bump stops and lowwer shocks
dropndragmazda   +1y
if your just wanting a cheap drop, crank down torsion bars, trim down the bumps stops, and 3'or 4' block wit a spring or 2 removal out back!
88mazdadaily   +1y
re index the torsions in the front, youll go way lower and the torsion bracket wont hang down then
maz22   +1y
ok, but is putting a 3" block safe on the axel?
kirk   +1y
Yes. I think you cant go over 4", and should have pinion corrected blocks.
crazymikey   +1y
Dropping these trucks is so easy.

I spent about $600 and did a good drop on mine. The shocks and spindles were the most significant cost. Shocks were $77 each,and I paid like $250 for the spindles.

I bought Procomp Toxic shocks for all 4 corners. They are very beefy,and they're a lowering shock with shorter stroke and they ride very nice. I also got AIM 2" drop spindles. You need to run atleast a 17" rim for them to fit though,but it's worth it. You have no camber issues whatsoever,but they do push the wheels out about a 1/4",so if you have something like Escalade rims,you might rub on the fender lip.

Like the other guys said,you can reindex your torsions,but you don't have to if you use the spindles.The spindles already give you 2" of drop,so you just adjust the torsions to your desired level to get the front down.

You can also flip your balljoints,but I don't like that. It rides like ass and throws your camber off. I chewed through a set of brand new tires in 2 weeks,so I'm against flipping them.

In the front you,can also remove your LOWER bumpstop on the lower control arm,but leave the top one in.

In the back,you can use 2,3 or 4" blocks. Just don't ever stack blocks together. With a 3 and 4" block,you will definetly need to cut down,or completely remove your bumpstops. You can always get some thin aftermarket ones,but I'd also suggest a c-notch in your frame,which can be done easily with a section of pipe,a grinder and a welder.

For your leaf springs,take out the middle leaf (you might have 1 or 2),but leave the main leaf and the tiny short leaf on the bottom. If you run just the big alone,you run the risk of doing some serious damage.
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