Driveshaft questions...

I have a 90 xcab mazda, when i got it it was already bagged all the way around. The rear has a reverse link setup with bags on the lower bars. I know that isnt the best setup but it actually works good and the fab work is nice. I wanna keep it that way for a lil while because i plan on building a frame with 5 lug suspension. I dont really want to waste the money re bagging the rear.

Im having trouble with my carrier bearing, its TOAST but still driveable. Im wondering if the reverse link setup is causing the bearing to go bad. It was already bad when i got the truck. Should i just change the bearing and see if it goes bad again? I was thinking about putting a slip yoke after the bearing to elminate and push/pull on the bearing. Has anyone done this? Maybe just shorten the shaft?? Has anyone had problems with their carrier bearings?

Thanks in advance guys! I need to fix this problem ASAP in fear of the bearing locking up on me.

def. the reverse set-up causing the problems. best solution is to rid the reverse set-up

yea thats not gonna happen anytime soon. I dont wanna waste the money on redoing it when i plan on building a frame for it.

I guess ill just put a slip yoke on it and the should relieve the stress on the bearing....

it wont be a waste of money.... spending money on the drive shaft to "make it right" will be a waste of time and money.... just my opinion but their are alot of guys on here with the same out-look towards reverse set-ups.... relocate your tank and flip the link forward....

Its not really a waste of time and money to get the driveshaft done, it will still be useful to me once i build my frame. Its not like i wont be able to use it once i start over. Hell, even Seth put a slip yoke on that nissan truck he built and its got the bars goin forward!!

I HATE spending money twice and rebaggin the rear and then building a frame next year will be doin exactly that, SPENDING MONEY TWICE!

I gotta get a new carrier bearing anyway, and i have a slip yoke that i can most likely use for this so it wont cost much to get it done.

i know reversed setups are JUNK but i need this one to last me until i can build my frame. You might be made of money to be able to do shit over and over but im not so thats why im not gonna rebag it.

with that said go for it can't hurt anything....

dude, just keep the 4 link and make new tabs. just do the 4 link the way it should be and relocate the gas tank if you haven't already. if the truck is already bagged than it isn't really anything other than new brackets which you can make yourself and cutting and rewelding. no need to buy a new 4 link, unless of course the bars are real short or something but even then, i would think you should just be able to fab up a few brackets and spend the weekend making it right. just an idea bro.

What does it take to move my tank to the back? I know the usuals like fuel injection hose but will the tank actually fit back there? Or will i have to get another tank?

should be able to relocate it as easily as running longer fuel line and wires for the pump. and making some brackets for it as well. no need to buy a new tank right now. just wait until you build your frame. and it will fit fine turned sideways.

These trucks need a slip yoke anyways. With any adjustable suspension, you are going to have a wheel arch. And mid travel it will be the farthest away from the carrier bearing. Most setups that are built well will move 1" minimum front to back. The average setup moves about 2 inches. The stock carrier bearing is meant to handle about 1/2" of movement total without damaging it. With more than a few inches of travel this is very hard to achieve. If your wheel arch is small, your carrier bearing will last longer, but you are still hurting it. If you put in a slip yoke, like the American car makers did on their two piece drivelines, you'll never replace another carrier bearing for this reason. SO essentially, it will save you money, because a carrier bearing job is usually around $100. If you're replacing one every 6 months it gets expensive when you can spend $120 once to have a brand new slip yoke installed.

Tim you know how much I look down on Reverse links though. Personally I don't think it would take much work to flip it around and move the tank. It might cost you $50 to buy a couple of new tabs and some steel to make a frame for the gas tank.