Hub to Hub (Trackwidth) distance on 2wd 86-92 Mazda

the measurement i got from fender lip to fender lip is 64"

that's a little narrower than mine... i have a feeling we'll have a slight range in numbers. i forgot that i've accidently dumped air with my tires turned several times and taco'd the fenders, and hit bumps riding at just the wrong height and done it several more times, i had to hammer it out and shrink the metal to get it straight again... so its highly likely my fender lips are a little wider.

Na man no race mazda lol, but it will be somehwere around 400 hp, (STRONG NO RACING AND NO BURNOUTS FOR ME lol). I'm gonna be running a sbc with the Inglese downdraft quad-webber setup so it should be something different than an ugly regular carburator

But as far as the front and rear brakes go, i have 12.19" x-drilled/sloted rotors all the way around with dynalite calipers. I wanted to run 14 in the front but for that size kit it was like $800 more and I was already paying out my ass for hte 12.19s.

For the front I used the wilwood mustang II spindle which I think narrows the track width a little bit compared to a regular mustang II spindle and used howe racing ball joints in the upper and lower control arms, and of course the rear end is a ford 9 inch.

The only reason why i went to 52" in the rear is so I could run an 18x8.5 or 18x8 wheel, with 4 inch backspacing (because according to intro thats the biggest lip I can get for that width wheel).

But hey check these pics out, I took my chassis to the Low Rollers show and borrowed a freinds wheels that had like almost no lip (these were 18x7), and i measured from outside of the wheel to outside of the wheel and i came up with 54 inches. So that means I should be able to run atleast 3" of lippage up front I would think, and also I am getting a new cab so I might just take it to the pinch, and have my bodyguy build a pinch on the bed so it matches.

But anyways, let me know if you think the 3" lip up front makes sense:

3'' of lip and they'll be touching pretty good on the fenders... so maybe a little less but seems to make sense to me. don't forget about camber changes too...

Thanks for your response Speedster.

yes the rear is not narrowed, but It does have clearence. I have set it up so There is about 1" between the rear tire and chassis (the tire/wheel tread width will be 9.1" on a 225/35/18 tire), and it also clears the bed. This i double checked a few hundred times lol, because I knew it was very critical.

Well I figured 3 inch lip in the front this is including the negative camber. The pics above have very little negative camber when layed out, and some positive camber when fully lifted. I will need to shim the upper control arms inwards (I have spacers made for this) to correct this issue.

As far as the hubs go, For some reason 3" lip in the front of a Mazda, I do nto think would work with stock hubs, because I see all these folks running this super high + offset wheels on Mazda (frankly I hate chrome wheels, especially Chrome wheels with high + offsets!" I will have to check the hub to hub and see what it is on my setup, Do you have a number for the stock hub to hub in the front? Thanks man for all your help. BTW your truck is killer.

don't remember exactly but its less than 59 and more than 58... somewhere in there.

Well, if the outside of my wheel to the outside of the opposite wheels (on the frame right now, ones that have like a 7" backspace on a 7" wide wheel pretty much), is 54" with negative camber and tires, then the track width, I would assume has to be like 52. This gets me to believe that I should be able to fit a 18x8 with a 4" backspae in the front too. Man i should have measured all my shit before I did it so I would know.

Anyways it dont matter, my new cab/fenders/and bed will be here this weekend. I'll throw the cab on before I make the new floor, and just estimate the amount of room I have for the bodydrop.

Thanks bro.

do you have a project thread? if not start one!! i'd like to see some pics