Torsion Bar Safety

I am totally new to the Mazda B trucks. I bought a 1986 B2000 to convert to an electric vehicle (hope that doesn't offend). Anyway, I need to rebuild the front suspension and have never worked on anything equipped with torsion bars. Can anyone explain to a newbie the step-by-step process to remove the torsion bars without getting maimed or killed? The engine and trans are out, so will that affect anything I need to do?

All I know is where the torsion bars are, and there appears to be an adjustment bolt on the end under the cab. I have read some posts about this bolt breaking. Other than getting the front up off the ground, is there any way to unload the tension off the torsion bar before I start?

Thanks to any and all who are willing to help me out with this!
EVMazdaBTruck

welcome

hear ya go man this will show step by step how to unbolt them. hope this helps and keep us upadted on the electric truck deal.

Awesome, an EV Mazda. I did some reading on EVs a few years back but finally decided to do an ICE Mazda. I wished I had a ton more money so I could go with an AC drive and lithium batteries. But I will have to live with an FE3 conversion.

Keep us updated on your project and good luck.

Matt

welcome to the bscene post up some pics

electric truck huh.........seems cool. so when we bagging it?

Make sure you jack the truck off the ground and allow the front suspension to go to full "droop", use jack stands under the frame. Lube the torsion anchor bolts with some type of penetrating oil. This will help not shear the bolt head off (quite common). Unbolt the anchor bolt completely. The torsion will slide out from the lower control arm anchor plate with a few taps of a BFH.

Thanks for all the info! I think I can do this safely now that I have a better understanding of how it works. As an old hot rodder from way back, I'm installing a large DC motor that will be a beast in a light B2000. I'll start out with a 72 volt pack of deep cycle lead acid batteries. I'm hinging the back of the bed and mounting two gas struts to hold it open when unlatched. The batteries will mount under the bed and in front of the rear axle with an open tunnel for the driveshaft. I'm keeping the 5-speed and clutch. If the performance and range are not sufficient, I should be able to go all the way up to a 144 volt pack by finding room to install another 12 batteries. I'm going to start at 72V and see how it runs. Depending on the total pack (battery) weight, I may have to air bag the rear. I anticipate maintaining a stock ride height, but can't rule out dropping it down later.

I will post some pictures eventually. Honestly it's not much to look at right now because it is mostly disassembled and sandblasted. When I get a few warm days I will primer and color coat the engine compartment and maybe post some then.

Also, there is a HUGE amount of fabrication to engineer and implement. Fortunately I can do most of it myself. I expect to be driving this by this summer. My other toy is a '67 Firebird convertible with a "warmed up" 455 - it's tagged and street driven. I'm also assembling a '69 Firebird convertible fresh off the rotisserie. Plenty of projects at my house! Thanks again, I'm sure I'll have some more questions as this progresses.