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Mazda Lowering Static \  Static lowering/indexing the torsions

Static lowering/indexing the torsions

Mazda Lowering Static Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 17
following 5
 
korrupt1   +1y
Well since I appear to have some free time suddenly....very suddenly (layed off my job today...figures...payday too...that blows) so I decided since I am gonna have the time I am gonna drop her down a lil and with money suddenly much tighter...static lowering is gonna be my way to go....so I been reading some on indexing and hoping you all can offer a lil more info...as anything I have had before was coil sprung (full size chevy that I did on AirRide tech then changed to lifted prerunner type) so I wanna go in kinda pre-prepared so I can get it sone as much correctly as I can...it will be going straight to the alignment shop (have a buddy that runs one so I am getting hooked up there...thank god for close friends)....so any info is MUCH MUCH appreciated! Thanks!

Basically...what exactly IS indexing? I am gonna do some reading/hunting maybe tonight but my girl says I need to go out tonight and just get tanked cuz I really really loved my job and my boss felt like shit letting me and 5 others go today...this economy can suck my ass BTW.

/end rant
sleepyspeed   +1y
no kidding on the economy...... best of luck on getting some work

anyways to re-index the torsion bars you need to get the front end up in the air and the tires off the ground. the tension adjustment bolts for the torsion bars are just about under the seats alongside the frame rails. they take a 17mm socket to back them off. use some penetrating oil on these bolts before trying to back them off or you will end up talking to one of us looking for new bolts.

once those bolts are completely backed off there is no pressure on the torsion bars anymore. take a sharpie or soap stone and mark a line from the torsion bar to the torsion bar coupler on the lower control arm... this will let you know were stock location is.

no take a hammer an tap the bars out of the coupler hitting the forked end of the torsion bar that the bolt run through. now it's up to you to decide how low you want. If I remember right it's about one inch of drop per spline ie: 4 splines = 4 inches lower. you will rotate the bars counterclockwise on the drivers side and clockwise on passenger side (laying under the truck looking forward)

if you go much past 2" of drop you will also need to cut off the stock bumpstops and use a firmer and shorter shock.
91b2200(cody)   +1y
sorry to hear ya lost your job.. although its happening everyday all over the place.

and theres plenty of threads here that tell you how to lower it by torsions n indexing..

id type it out but iam tired. so i'll do a quick search......ok here we go

another guy asked the same thing you did and another member came up with this so i'll post it for you

heres the link

hope that helps
nc4life   +1y
Yeah what they said^^^

What reindexing allows you to do is keep the rear of the torsion bar from sticking down pass the frame when you lossen the bolt on the anchor end. You really don't want that to come incontact with the road or ground and get hit. Cause as you loosen the anchor bolt on the back of the torsion bar it starts to turn down towards the ground. So this reindexing allows you to put the end back up inside the frame area and not hanging down. You will see what I'm talking about when start to loosen the rear anchor bolt. Hope that helps.

Also a link to explain it somemore.
korrupt1   +1y
Thanks guys....thats alot of help. So I can jack up the truck and put the frame on jackstands and I should be good? I am gonna do 3" blocks for the rear and I have shocks on order so I will run whatever is on there just for now...should be ok right? Wont be on there that long. You guys are awesome.

Jim
91b2200(cody)   +1y
yeah you can set it on jack stands thats fine.
and stock shocks will be ok for now until you out new ones on. which will make it ride much better to.
3" block ... nice and mono leaf? or just a block?
korrupt1   +1y
Just blocks for the time....I kinda lost my main work area. So until I get to a buds garage and then I can tear down the leafpacks...really shouldnt even work on the suspension here but screw it...gonna anyways. LOL


BTW ...love your new toy you got there...was reading about it earlier
91b2200(cody)   +1y
^ yeah man its not that hard to remove the leafs. i mean if you do it once for the first time it might take a good hour to two.. but after that you could do it in no time.

oh and thanks man. its really one of a kind around this place.. lol
korrupt1   +1y
Yours is a awesome find....saw you had to wait a bit to get her but its all worth it in the end right? Well chatted with a bud and we might drop the leaves anyways right off the bat.....he does run a suspension and alignment shop and all it costs me is a case of beer for work so thats cool and add the fact full lifts at my disposal...sweet huh?....he was gonna look for some drop spindles for me buut I told him to hang off on those from what I been reading...but he is the one gonna order me the shocks, I am thinking Toxic's should be good? I remember when they came on the scene years ago.

Thanks for all your help

Jim
91b2200(cody)   +1y
Toxic's are good.
and yea no need for them spindal unless ya really want them.
and that cool your friend does that sort of thing. i mean i wish i had a friend like that. lol
yeah i had to wait a lil bit on my truck but now i got it and it gunna be alot of time n money into it