Yolk Change or New Shaft?

So I've had my v8 conversion together for a while and kinda slacked off on it alot! I only need a driveshaft for it to be mobile. Here's the situation I'm faced with and I'm asking for any comments and ideas to help make a decision on how to further proceed!!! I have an aluminum driveshaft out of an old ford van. The front yolk goes into the transmission as it is supposed to but the whole driveshaft is about 6 inches TOO LONG. Also the rear yolk doesn't match my Mazda bolt pattern. The shop here that did aluminum work recently closed before I got my work done. So I'm opting to either change the yolk on my rearend and keep the aluminum unit or have a steel driveshaft made to fit with the rear yolk from my stock driveshaft. I would prefer the 1st option due to being more cost friendly but the only question about that is availablity/compatability. I also have access to the necessary tools to shorten the shaft just not to balance it. All positive input welcomed!!!

doubt your going to find an aluminum pinion flange for your driveline. not saying you won't... just saying i doubt it. you might be able to come up with some sort of adapter if you go thru the trouble to get it shortened and rebalanced....
it might be easier to get a new one built to your current dimensions.

When I put a Chevy in mine, I just cut the front off of the Mazda shaft and welded the Chevy yoke to it.
Mine is the smaller diameter, two piece shaft, so I had to get about 0.010 machined off the yoke, in order to get it to fit.

My engine puts out 345 lb./ft. of torque and the Mazda shaft holds up just fine.

I did the same thing had a 302 in my truck but i cut theback off and put the mazda on the ford shaft

both of you guys actually did the fab work on your own drivelines?? hows the vibration?

it wasnt to bad really, i could fill it at around 80mph ,110 it was gone haha but no really it wasnt bad at all,i took the ford shift marked on the end where the wieght was and did the same to the mazda shaft and then put them together in the same place the end would have been that way they where close to where you should have been, can you under stand that its not reading back right to me

I have no vibration from the shaft.
I took it to a driveline shop and had it balanced.
Mazda spec allows for 0.006 runout... I ended up with 0.012 runout.
Not enough to fiddle with.

mine wasnt to bad i just had them lengthen the 302 shaft to fit cuz i am running a ford rearend lol i am going back to the mazda rear this weekend and i thank you guys for all the info cuz now i know what i am going to do

no prob man..