need a veterans advice

so Ive got just about everything mocked up, getting ready for my 4 link, and getting my pinion angles correct... just a question for you veterans....

here's my axle when the bags fully deflated...


and here is the axle when the bags are at ride height....


is this correct... I know you want the bag to close flat on it self which is how I have it, but when it is at ride height the axle moves back about an inch... just hoping some one can help me out thanks in advance. -Ross-

the 4 link should keep it steady thats what it does , keeps the truck aligned instead of leaf springs atleast in my eyes it does

The axle will move forward and backward as it moves up and down. The 4 link system is "fixed" at the frame and the axle forms a "floating" point. Think of things this way - draw a circle, then draw a straight line from the center of the circle to it's farthest right hand edge. Then center of the circle represents the frame mount on the 4-link and the intersection of the line to the circle represents the axle. As the axle moves up and down it moves along an imaginary arc.

The longer the bars, the less forward / backward movement. But long bars can also create other problems which is why the bars you have are pretty much designed around a given length.

On another note, given the above info you should also pay attention to how much the driveshaft moves in and out of the transmission (think we discussed this already )

thanks the more i kept thinking about it I figured that was the way it worked.... when the bags are totally deflated and the axle is all the way up, the axle is at its furthest point in to the trans. that it would go, In comparison to the stock position it is right where it should be, so I think Im in safe, but once i get the 4 link in and mocked up I'll be able to test it to be sure everything is good to go.... any more advise would be greatly appreciated -Ross-

mock it up so that the bag is collapsed evenly when at layed out. as you air it up it will move the axle forward or backwards depending on how you have your link bars set up. another way to look at this is say that your elbow is the link bars mounting point and your hand is your axle. with your arm parallel to the ground move it up and down and watch how much your hand draws closer to you at 45 degree angles down and up. its the easiest way that ive been able to explain it to people and not saying that Linns way is wrong just another way to look at it. another thing that ill mention and im sure you will do it, is make sure you have a clean and rust free surface when you go to weld everything on. good penetration is key when building ones suspension along with measuring a lot. hope it helps you

im going to say this. set your truck at the ride height you want. work from there. i did mine on the ground sitting on top of 2x4s. that was my ride height. then i worked from that point.leave the bags so that they are not fully collapsed at ride height other wise the bags will "rub". thats the way i did it and have had no problems

thanks for all the advice... im hoping to be able to get everything mocked up this coming weekend. if I have any other questions ill be sure to ask -Ross-

just out of curiousity, what problems have you run into with longer bars?

I would also ask if ya wanted to lay out or not, I have mine set up to be 1, 1/4 " off the ground at full drop that said i have 20"ers