Question??? I want lower front

I have read opinion after opinion on the front of the mazda. Some say cut the bump stops and others say dont. I have not flipped the ball joints yet but am going to very soon as I need to Fix my camber anyways. I have probably 1 to 2 degree negative camber now as my truck used to sit up like a 4wd. Fugly to me. I took off the wide rims and gave the whole truck about 4 to 6" all the way around. The torsion bars are riding bump stops now and the rear is riding on 2 leafs and 3" blocks and Im not hitting frame unless I hit a bump. My question about the front is what should I do next (I mean other than a ball joint flip which I will be doing on Dec. 14th anyways). I already have cut bumpstops as far as Im willing to so the truck isnt hitting metal on metal. What would I benifit from cutting bump stops mounts and what are the negatives from doing it? I plan to body drop next year but I want something now. I can weld and I have a sawsall and a cut off wheel. Throw me some ideas please. My truck has the weber conversion already and I have cleaned up the wheel wells so I could cut those if need be.

Oh and thanks in advance for any input.

Well my first observation is that you are using the stock diameter tires (or close to it)

If you stay with 14" rims, get 185/60/14's - that will help a lot

I will paste my info for lowering the front, this will get you as close to the ground as possible and also ride really nice (even when you hit bumps)

- Buy the DJM lower arms

- Make sure you are re-indexing the torsion bars and not just loosening them

- If not using the DJM arms, remove the bump stops entirely (you can go almost as low without the arms but camber will suck and ride will be worse)

- You need to cut a small corner off the shock tower or it'll hit the upper arm

- Get short shocks, the DJM or the Belltech - I use the 2002 Xterra shocks, works great.

You can get it low enough that the tire will hit the wheelwells this way. (or depending on your tire height, you'll hit the lower crossmember on the ground.

I reindexed the torsion bars and in the process broke off one of those pesky torsion bar bolts.

I actually drive a 2004 frontier with stock shocks on a lifted truck. they should be the exact same as an xterra.

I have read about the lower arms and how they actually raise the lower ball joint up but haven't committed to buying any yet.

I will cut the corner off of the shock tower definitely.

Is it not adjustable enough to correct the camber after these modifications?

I have read everything all the way to page 8 on the static forum and there is some good information here.

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Not too sure if the frontier and xterra are the same, the reason they work well is double

a) they use an very inboard mounted shock (it is very far towards the center of the truck, farther from the wheels so a short stroke shock creates a lot of travel

b) since it is mounted as such, even the stock shock must be fairly stiff to compensate

You can flip the balljoint, but I have never needed to

The arms are one of my favorite things!

Prevent breaking the torsion bolts by thoroughly coating the threads in anti-seize compound

You may only have a few alignment shims to remove to correct camber (adding shims increases neg camber, no shims gives max pos. camber) if you use the lower arms you will be fine, if not and you want it low, you may have a little neg. camber even with no shims.

I was hearing a noise in the back of truck last night when I hit a bump, I checked it and my trailer hitch was hitting the shackles. next step is to remove that thing so my suspension is able to work correctly. then comes my step notch and bed floor raise.

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here is an update of truck as of today

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