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Mazda Exterior \  Rust work

Rust work

Mazda Exterior Mazda Tech
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replies 11
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inferno94   +1y
I'm looking at doing some rust work on the B and my 323, the 323 will likley get glassed in the rust areas to hopfully keep the rot away and the small holes on the B's box will too. Is there somthing that will stop the rust from returning somthing I can put over the bare metal before the glass mabey so it doesn't have it's support rot away?

I realize the box is easy to replace but its not in that bad of shape and I want to use it as practice for the car which is a COMPLETED project minus the rust work and paint.
pimp b2200   +1y
the only way to stop the rust from comming back is to cut as much of it out as you can and weld in new metal, there is stuff called por15 thats is supposed to be a rust inhibitor.Ive heard good things about it but never used it
carolinasled   +1y
i hate rust...... what does por15 due and how do you use it?
hex0rz   +1y
They have rust treating products. I can almost safely assume 100% that the nearest auto parts store will have a can of rust treat!

I'm not really sure what it is, besides the fact that it may be a sort of acid etching material. With these rust treat products, all you need to do is get the metal down to as bare metal as possible and brush it on!

With the stuff I use, if it does'nt have rust where you treat it, it does'nt turn a purple color. The bottle should have all the instructions and safety warnings you need to use it safely!

If your panels are rusted OUT, patch paneling is another thing! If you just have rust on the surface and it does'nt go all the way through, rust treating will be alot smarter to do!

You can also paint over rust treat as well. Once you rust treat it, that surface is to never rust again!
speedster93b   +1y
you should cut out any rust. if you glass over it or mud over it it WILL crack out and show thru just like it is now. no question about it. weld in patch panels and then mud over that.
i've used a product called Rust-mort. works good. you sand or wire wheel most of the loose dirt/rust/crud off and apply it a couple times i believe, and wipe the excess off with water when its dry (weird i know) and then when it's dry again you can mud over it
crazymikey   +1y
I have some surface rust I'm going to repair,and I was going to grind/sand down as much of it as possible and use a rust inhibitor and then fill it. I cut out all the rust in my bed floor and wheel wells,I just need some metal to patch the holes with now. The couple rust spots I sanded down and filled over last year have yet to crack or rust through yet,even with driving the truck all winter. The bare spots I sanded down and just primered over,obviously rusted and look twice as bad.
inferno94   +1y
The rust treatment products sound good since I don't have a welder.

Yeah the rust is through in a 1/2cm x 1/2cm hole on either side of the bed on the fenders but is mud filled right now by the previous owner (shitty job).

On my car I would be more in favor of glassing over welding since that area (rear wheel wells) rots out on every car I want to try and encase the steel in glass on the outside but just use spray on bedliner in the wells, this is my summer only vehicle so this may be overkill but I don't want to paint it twice.
mazdamandan   +1y
In the olden days before I had a welder, I would shape aluminum sheet and rivet in the panels, I do not do that anymore, I make panels and weld them in, but If you are on a budjet and want something better than fiberglass then I reccomend using this method.

cut out the rusty area(in a shape easy to make a filler panel for)

use a rust neutralising chemical (carefully!)

cut and shape the aluminum patch panel

make your rivet divots( small dents with body hammer allowing clearance for rivot heads)

drill out the holes required (for rivets, duh!)

use aluminum filler or short strand fiberglass filler(use as little filler possible)

use a primer that has a rust resistance, and works well with aluminum

I am not claiming any liability, for suggesting this low dollar repair method.
crazymikey   +1y
lol,that's exactly what I did with my rear wheel well. I cut out the rust and the hole was so big I could get my arm through it,so I got some aluminum,but I just used self tapping metal screws to hold it in place,and then I fiberglassed over the entire thing and then sprayed it with rattle can truck bed liner. After that was all said and done,I put my drop in bedliner over top and no one's the wiser...

But now that I have a welder,it's going to be seeing a lot of action with patch panels this spring.
crazymikey   +1y
Inferno,since you go to school in Guelph,maybe say around April at the earliest,you could always stop by my place and make use of my welder. I'm just outside Orangeville,and we also have a place in Mount Forest where I usually do most of my big jobs.