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Mazda Exterior \  making the switch

making the switch

Mazda Exterior Mazda Tech
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replies 12
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redsloten   +1y
so I think its about time to get rid of the brown on thee truck. since im gonna be replacing the front end and I really kind stand the color. so my question is whats gonna be the best way for me to get ready to prime the truck? sand all the paint off then use etching primer then primer?or paint stripper/wash it/sand/power wash then prime or rough up whats on there and paintover it? the original has most the clear coat flaking off I also have the massave se5 stripping down whole truck and some rust areas most of its just surface.
zaccutt   +1y
Just sand out all the imperfections and flaky clear coat until it is all smooth, fix any damages and sanding out the imperfections should be done with 500grit sandpaper expect the body work which should be sanded with 240 then all the bare metal would be etched primed, scuffed, then all the body work should be primed but only the areas that have had the paint removed or covered up with body work. There is no need to prime the entire truck.

Then the primer would be sanded with 500grit until smooth. Then at this point you would have an entire body sanded with 500grit and all the primer smoothed out. Then the paint would be sprayed onto this surface.

Or atleast thats the way I was taught. Priming your entire truck is kind of pointless......

Zac
redsloten   +1y
well I just wanted to prime it cause im not ready to paint it yet and I cant stand the brown
zaccutt   +1y
then just 500 everything so it will stick properly cause like it or not it has to be painted over later so u still gotta do it all right and its a big job to do it that why I would just say to wait.

Zac
crazymikey   +1y
speaking from experience driving a primered truck daily; don't do it. Dirt sticks to it like mad,it's always filthy,it attracts moisture and causes more rust than what was originally on the truck. You can use a sealer on it and that will help,but it's still primer and it's still gonna suck.

I rattle canned my truck with enamel paint,and I suggest you do that. Primer the truck firts,then rattle can it whatever colour.....the paint protects the primer and the metal. I haven't had any rust come through since I rattle canned it.

All in all,might cost you up to $275 for all your supplies and paints.
pont   +1y
I would not rattle can it for 1 main reason the rattle can might mess up your paint plans to come. If the brown gets on your nerves then sand it like above. If the clear is coming off and is white powder in spots Then it has been messed up by the UV rays and you need to get it all off (the damaged parts). Then go get you some Epoxy primer and shot it. the Epoxy will hold up really well and water will not effect it. Dont use etch on paint it will mess it up. Etch primer is a type of acid in it that etches into the metal
1dayiwill   +1y
You must prime the whole truck before you paint it. the new paint will stick to the primer, not the old paint. And if you want to drive around with only primer for a while then use epoxy primer. It will withstand rust. crazymiky probobly used general purpose primer or something. i swear if you buy a book on auto painting at books a million or something it will be worth it. it will be the smartest $20 investment in your paint job.
zaccutt   +1y
The truck does not need to be primed for the paint to stick. I have worked in a body shop for two years. And as I said our way above is our way it works, you may have others but this will work. It does not need to be primed. 500 the entire truck and prime any body work or areas where the paint had been removed. But as I suggested above if there is bare metal showing etch prime it first, scuff it then prime over it with regular primer.

The reason I despise priming entire vehicles is because it makes a lot more work then is needed. To get primer to stick properly the entire truck would need to be 500ed then the primer would be sprayed on. Then when you are actually painting it all the orange peel (the texture that primer ends up with) needs to be sanded out. And sanding this out of an entire vehicle is a lot of work...

IMO just wait it out.

Zac
pont   +1y
You don't have to use etch primer for small spots. And it is true you don't have to prime the hole thing for new paint to stick. But you do need to get that old clear off if its failing now just covering it up wont stop if from peeling. Trust me I know I have had lots of body guys tell me that I need to strip it all off. My clear is coming off to. So If your gone paint right away then I would do this.


Remove decals and clean glue off
clean off rust and get it all out use a rust resolver like
naval Jelly
(go to post 3 to see how thats used )
Clean truck really good
remove wax and grease with a good cleaner.
Sand with 500 grit Use a block if you just use your hand you can leave marks that you might not see till you paint so use a block.
prime spots were bare metal is showing.
(I know some will say to use etch but epoxy will work just fine and the epoxy will repeal water were the etch will soak it up)
Sand the primer again with 500
then paint like you had just primer the hole truck.

Here is a good web site read up and have fun


redsloten   +1y
alright soiwill try this idea the sanding thewhole truck and fixing thefew spots and painting. i took allthe se5 massive21 year old decals off earlier this weekand i have tried a whole bunch of products to remove adhesive any one have any clues i went to a local paintshop to get the eraser wheel and the only sold them in 5 packs for 40 bux i told the guy i only needed one and hes like then ull have 4 extra so i didntget them if you cangive any other ideas id appreciate it. also i decided im just gonna paint it flat black for now