posting oics for tuckin20's

Trust me that my old truck I bought and installed the wheels they are 6 lug wheels.

I had a blast hanging out with DEV and the guys from IVEVERLOW I am still alive but I have a lot going on and really dont have time to chat online much. And Like said before I dont really enjoy the Bscene as much as before.
I still have 2 pretty decent mazda's (the roadster, BBQ), and the c-10. I am trading away the pathfinder for a 65 Ford Galaxie. I have been a minitrucker for 20 years now its time for me to do other car related things with a bit of the mini truck style mixed in. If all goes as planned I will be @ Mazdafest later this year to meet a few more of you.


Back to the subject at hand Tavis I am looking forward to seeing what you do to finish the mazda I know she is in good hands. Have fun with her I know I did.

speedster- the upper link bars on the chevy are just tacked in. I was just trying to see how long I could keep the bars and get the angle I need. I am debating on whether to shorten the bars a foot to get my angle or if I should switch the bars to the center of the rear end and move the front ends outside to the top of the frame. Any opinions???? I am leary of mounting them to the center of the rear end though. I have over 600hp being put to the pavement and to me mounting to the center just doesn't seem as strong. Am I crazy or is there any truth to this?

Bump on any info about the 4 link??

Not one person on here has ANY info about the 4 link on my chevy??? I know its not a mazda but come on.... I thought if someone had a ? this was the place to ask.

This is just my opinion. The upper bars are not triangulated enough and they look longer than the bottom bars. What I would do is shorten the top bars a little bit and move them so that they mount on the center of the axle and the out to the frame. Now when you mount to the center you should not weld to the pumpkin cause I think it is cast and welding cast can be a bitch. What you will need to do is take and make a mount that goes from right at the egde of the pumpkin where it meets the axle tube and go across the pumpkin. That way you have a good steel mounting point over the axle, keep it as close to the pumpkin as possible and make it hella strong. Also keep in mind with any good 4-link your front and rear mounting points should be almost the same distance apart(the mounts on the axle should a little bit farther apart the the mounts on the frame). Basicly what you are trying to do is, if you draw imaginary line down the bars all the way to the front of the truck (this is looking from the side of the truck) they should intersect at the front bumper. Like I said this is my opinion and I'm not that great at explaining how to do the work hope you can understand what I'm talking about, if not maybe I can find some pics of what I'm talking about.

You could leave your bars their and run a panhard bar, but I not a big fan of them cause the make you axle swing from one side to the other when you lift and lower the truck.

You could also run a watts link and leave your bars where they are.

bump

shorten your bars and make tabs that'll mount to your driveline hoop. make gussets out of the same DIA tubing your hoop is made of going to your notch or another part of your frame to make sure it won't see any forward/backward motion when you stomp the gas.
i dunno what rearend your running, but as mentioned above its cast. don't try to weld to it. you'll kill yourself