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Mazda Interior \ no factory tach to factory tach cluster swap?no factory tach to factory tach cluster swap?
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replies 9
following 8
thafox
+1y
i searched but came up empty as far as the swap goes, is it plug an play or is there something that has to be rigged mine is a 89, an the tach is commin off a 91 if it makes a difference, thnx in advance
91extcab
+1y
^^^^ what he said... There it's also an adjuster behind the speedo side to adjust spring tension so you can get your speedo accurate... The non tach version is bigger than the tach'd speedo and will read differently after you swap... I ran into both problems (both inaccurate speedo and broken cable) I did solve the cable problem but never cared to fix the speedometer accuracy...
rotten
+1y
hell yes! i just happend to pick up a new cluster from junk yard today w/ 100k less miles and a tac. haha lucked out
thafox
+1y
yea tach i bought has 58k on it and still does because i havent been able to find a spedo cable yet lol
yea tach i bought has 58k on it and still does because i havent been able to find a spedo cable yet lol
jaybur
+1y
I realize this is an older thread.... but in my 89 I added the tach cluster (I never understand why automatics tend to have a tach, but not manual transmission vehicles) . I did not research anything about the swap, I just did it... ran into the cable issue, so I moved that over to the left, which resolved that problem. But I realized that my clock was not working. (the old unit had no clock, so I was not looking for the clock.
well I finally got around to getting that working too. and as mentioned you have to add power, a constant power so it holds the time, unless you want it to start from 1:00 every time you turn the key back on.
so here is what I did.
The red circle represents the 2 contacts that are added. The pink circle is the one that needs to be hooked to constant power. (you could stop there if you want, your clock will work fine).
the other contact in the red circle is what dims the clock at night when you turn on the headlights. I just soldered it to a connection on the circuit board, there was already something soldered to that spot, so I just added this wire to it.
the white circle represents the spot it was soldered to. this way there is only 1 wire that is routed off the cluster, the one that goes to the constant power.
could I have left it alone and not had the clock working? well most people would be ok with it, but small things that dont work bother me, so I HAVE to get them working !
Other than the clock, and moving the speedometer cable over to the left everything was plug and play.
well I finally got around to getting that working too. and as mentioned you have to add power, a constant power so it holds the time, unless you want it to start from 1:00 every time you turn the key back on.
so here is what I did.
The red circle represents the 2 contacts that are added. The pink circle is the one that needs to be hooked to constant power. (you could stop there if you want, your clock will work fine).
the other contact in the red circle is what dims the clock at night when you turn on the headlights. I just soldered it to a connection on the circuit board, there was already something soldered to that spot, so I just added this wire to it.
the white circle represents the spot it was soldered to. this way there is only 1 wire that is routed off the cluster, the one that goes to the constant power.
could I have left it alone and not had the clock working? well most people would be ok with it, but small things that dont work bother me, so I HAVE to get them working !
Other than the clock, and moving the speedometer cable over to the left everything was plug and play.
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