small block 350

so im beginning to gut my engine bay of my old motor and after im done with that i was wonder whats the best way to rebuild and re finnish my intake maniold and carborater (edlebrok)

Would love to see one with a manual trans.

take your time dont get in a big rush and keep an open mind and it will all work out. not a fan of gm myself but the 350 is the best small block from gm. forget about the naysayers.

im by far not in a rush. just a little excited to get started. do any of you know which electrical wires and relays i need to keep for lights and blinkers etc etc?

the easiest thing to do is to get a wiring schematic sit down and figure out exactly what you need. it should'nt be all that complicated if you gonna use the carb setup. just have to relocate engine and trans mounts. the lights are relatively simple. just connect the v8 fuel lines the factory fuel lines. you will have to get a different throttle cable unless you can modify it. Sin City Local has a great write up on making the factory tach work with the v8. on mine i tied the ecm power wire in with the ignition wire under the dash. if you are running the carb it should be fairly simple.

Funny you should say that. I started on one of my trucks this week. Its planned out to be an LT1/6 speed combo with a 97 AWD Mountaineer 3.73 rear. I got the rear end set-up cut, adjusted, and installed this week, I'm gonna mock up the engine/trans combo next week.

Hey 007bob, question for you. Did the stock Mazda speedometer cable screw/connect right to the Chevy trans? I have a Ford (AOD) in mine and Ford uses the push-in style speedometer connector. But they have a Ford speedometer cable mount with Chevy style screw-in speedometer connections on ebay, if Mazda and Chevy use the same size screw in connector I'll buy that and be golden. The Chevy one is 7/8 but I cannot find any info on what size the Mazda speedo connector is.

You might try the technical section at They have some universal poly type mounts avaailable.

My 87 extended cab ran a 93 5.0 F.I. By far the best swap for a B. Swap was done in 98 and is still running strong today. I bought a complete 93 Mustang that had been t-boned and took the engine, trans, drive shaft, rear end and all the wiring out. The only thing that I didn't use was the rear end. It had a mazda/ford spliced harness. I did not rebuild the engine, just powdercoated it. In the 10 years that I had it I only had to replace a fuel injector. Probably put 100 000 kms on it and that was a hard 100k.

If I could do it again the only things I would do different is use a 5.0 Painless harness, run a 4 link and change out the rear end. The stock rear end with leafs just can't handle the power.

I used an ultimate customs 5.0 swap kit and still have another. I have decided not to sell it in case i want to use it in the future.