ok again 302 swap ?????

So far I read I need mid 80's mustang vert motor mounts and ill use the driver side on the pass. side and pass. on driver side, grind down the nub that is on the mounts and drill the frame a bit to make the mounts work. then the trans mount ill use the stang and again just drill frame to make the bolts fit in og spot.

1. do i just get a new front drive shaft made " price ? " use stock carrier barring and rear shaft ? someone said the stock rear end will be fine and i could upgrade to a think they said a rx 7 gears that are limited slip "

2. get a custom radiator made ? I dont want to cut core support if i run electric fan what else could i use ?

3. I might go carbed to make it easier but if i do go injected what do i need elec. fuel pump and dont the fuel lines need to hold more psi how hard is it to get the ecu to work ? and what smog stuff can i get rid of and still have the injection system work, how do i get the gauges to work and the computer pick them up?

4. anyone get there ac to work after the swap ??? what did you do ??

5. I have stick shift and im going to put a stick back in " i think i saw that the stang was cable and mazda is hydro what to i need to convert the stang trans to hydro ?

6. and i saw to use a stang oil pan but that the cross member under motor still needs to be redone . is that so and any pics of what you did ?

im sure ill have more ? but thanks for any help you can give.

i cant answer any of these questions like you asked me to in your pm... i've never done a mustang 302 swap, my truck is factory fuel injected 2.6.

First question is right. But the mustang motor mounts that you need are 87-93. I didn't know which was passenger and which was drivers side. I just did what worked for my application. Thankfully the tranny mount lined up and just had to slot the holes a little bigger.

1. You will need a whole new driveshaft. I used a T5 tranny from a mustang, so I got an old mustang DS and took it to a shop. They used the front yoke from the mustang shaft and use the Mazda flange on the rear. You'll be better off with a single piece DS instead of having a carrier bearing. If you are bagged, like me, you will most likely have to notch the cab for it.

2. I used a mustang rad. It was tough to fit and required major modification to the core support. Otherwise you could get your stock rad re-cored* (I believe is the word).

3. I went carbed so can't speak on the FI. But I removed all emissions stuff. I used a low pressure electric pump with 2 fuel filters. The factory gauges still work. Had to put a pontiac firebird circuit board in for the tach and have a custom speedometer cable made from speedometersolutions.com. Used stock wiring for the battery light. Used new wiring for oil pressure, and temp. to the back of the cluster. Used B2200 temp. sending unit and mustang oil sending unit.

4. Never had A/C in my truck. No need for it.

5. Daze cars online sells a nice hydro converter kit. That is where I bought mine. Plenty of options out there to convert mechanical to hydro and well worth it in my opinion. Will likely need a new MC too to match the slave.

6. Yes, stang pan with rear sump. Need to modify the Xmember. This is how I did mine. Nothing fancy.



Look at my project thread for more help.

There is a lot of useful info here but they make it sound easier than it actually is...

why is a 1 piece shaft better " the power " I really dont want to cut my cab, my kids sit in the back for shows. cant i just get the front shaft to go from t5 to mazda ? did your rear end hold up ok ? so most of the gauges work? couldnt i just get autometer tach ?

Have you compared a mustang driveshaft to the B-series shafts? The mustang is 3" diameter tubing. I'd be afraid the B's shaft would twist like a pretzel. The 2-piece is an added weak point.

I have only put about 10 miles on the truck since I got it running. The rear end was annoying with the one-wheel peelie, even in 3rd when you punch it. So I bought an RX-7 carrier member that I'll be putting in this winter.

All of my gauges work, but you can surely use an autometer tach. I just wanted to retain the stock look. Gives it the sleeper feel to it.

Actually, my 2 piece modded driveshaft held up to my 5.0 and 9psi Vortech S-trim (389whp) for many years - the new owner has no issues either - running 265/30/19 tires and lots of abuse.

It is a stock mazda 2 piece shaft with a ford front yoke on it - cost me maybe $200 total to get done -

Thought I would put in my 2 cents here, I have built 2 different 5.0 b2200's over the years and only recently sold my last one.

If you read my post about diffs you'll see I used 8" rear from a 2WD 2600 and the LSD from a FD3s after breaking many, MANY 7.5" rears.




As for wiring, the 5.0 works 100% best with the injection - believe me I tried many carb setups (because I falsely thought that it was easier to do) and failed with as bad as 110whp on one sad dyno pull...

There is a shop local to me that will take a Mustang harness and convert it for 3 wire hookup for $350 - you just need to put ground, batt. and ignition to make it run! I did this on both my swaps and it was a thing of beauty! Ran on the first turn of the key!

I paid $225 or so for my custom 1-piece shaft with the mustang yoke on the front and Mazda flange on the rear. I just felt safer with the beefier 1-pc. To each their own.