GM 4.3 swap questions

Has anyone done an actual write up on a gm 4.3 swap into a b series? I've looked but can't find one. Anyone know of any threads with a write up?

Not on this forum...
Look here.

Don't use a van engine, stuff is mounted too high on the engine (hood won't close). I used a truck engine, and pick a year of '70's- '80's v-8 engine mounts, not truck like the article, they mount the engine too high, hood problem. It is a drop in fit, even use Mazda radiator, but not the plastic one.
Engine mounts will sit on the original mount pads in the truck.Edit, not sure about 2000 engine mount pads location.
Of course use a serpentine belt engine so the radiator will not have to be moved forward. Label and tag wires to be used with 4.3: a hot when switch on distributor lead (if using '85 HEI distributor), air conditioner, starter, oil pressure, temp and alternator (the idiot light lead). Change to '70's carb to go bot-less.
Use reverse flow flex fan to gain inches in the front. Power steering is right there by the steering sector.

Thanks Geterdun. When you did yours did the tranny mounts work? Did you need a new driveshaft? And I understand you rigged the stock auto shifter to work. Can you please post pictures or send me to the right place so I can see if Its easier to do that or manual trans. Thank you.

Hi, the original mount could be used, but the tailshaft is in front of the original, so I fabricated one mounted from the frame on each side. This moved the weight forward on the frame a little. There are two holes on each side to use already (factory alignment holes for various operations?). I modified the Astrovan crossmember for this, doing it again, better to use square tubing.
Driveshaft: I had an astrovan shaft, which is few thousandth larger i.d. than the o.d. of the Mazda shaft. I cut the Astrovan shaft a foot from the front yoke, cut the Mazda shaft about an inch from the weld on the front yoke. I subtracted the o.d. of the Mazda shaft from the i.d. of the Astrovan shaft and shimmed opposing sides in six places with half the difference. Then aligned the u joint on the other end of the section of Mazda shaft 90 degrees from the one to be welded to it. Got to do this for balance.
To get driveshaft length: complete engine/transmission install. Bolt driveshaft to rearend (weight on the wheels (jackstands), bed weight too!), slide yoke into your transmission, pull out about one inch. Measure length from center of ujoint to center of ujoint, write it down. Pull the parts out. Make the driveshaft that long from center of ujoint to center of ujoint.
Mine is automatic with a shift kit. I thought adding 80 horses, that was good, also the five speed I have needs planetary bearings and reassembly, the automatic has 40,000 miles on it.
I would have gone five speed otherwise, realizing the rearend will tire of my enjoying the chirps into third (fourth?). I think the hole in the floor would be close for a shifter made in the transmission. Older transmissions, you could put the separate shifter where you wanted it.
Before you start, drive the truck down and have it steam cleaned underneath, you will thank me for this.