A couple 2.0 and weber questions please Help

Im converting my 2.2 over to a 2.0 and i have a couple questions for you guys... any help would be awesome

1) On my 2.2 i have an in-tank fuel pump but the 2.0 engine has a pump on the block.. Can i make a block off plate for the pump on the block or should i switch the tanks over and run the mechanical pump on the side of the block? Which pump would you guys reccomend using? (i have both trucks available so i can use parts from both to make the best combination)


2) With the weber 32/36 carb, what vaccum lines are still needed? (from what i have read i know i need the vaccum from the brake booster) do i also need the vaccum from the dist.? any other main vaccum lines that i will still need to run?

I have tried to search for what vaccum lines i will still need but i cant seem to find a clear picture/explaination of what lines i will still need.

Thanks for reading guys.

If I was in your shoes, I would just block off where the mechanical goes and keep running the in tank electric pump. As for vacuum lines, I only ones I have on my 32/36 setup are brake booster, distributor vacuum advance (which you have to keep), and PCV valve.

what does the dist vaccuum line do? my truck seems to run fine without it...

if you run an inline fuel pump with a weber you will need a fuel pressure regulator. a mechanical pump you won't need this but the response at lower rpms isn't as good.

The distributor vacuum line is the distributor advance. As the rpms increase the need to have a spark fire sooner in the compression chamber increases as well. Having this disconnected will limit your top end power and your fuel efficiency.

Without the vacuum advance hooked up it will run perfectly fine at an idle but once you give it a good amount of gas or try to put a load on it, it will not run good. Vacuum advance and brake booster is only things i ran on mine.






-Justin

gotcha. i havnt driven it yet with the new carb...so i havnt noticed nething like this. lmao. deff will be hooking that up.

Thanks for the help guys, i would like to keep the in-tank pump.. can i just make a simple steel block off plate with gasket maker on it and bolt it up to the block where the mechanical pump was?

What do you guys run for fuel pressure regulators? what model is the best one to use with the weber?

Hey Mini,
Most these guys have alot more experience than me, but here's my 2 cents, if the 2.2 head had no mech. fuel pump, there should be a block off plate there. Should fit. Or maybe you don't have the 2.2 engine, then yeah, make one, or I have seen them for sale here or elsewhere (ebay).
The heads are pretty much, if not exactly the same.
I think I read that the early solid lifter head has a small oil restricter pressed in the oil feed hole, but I have never seen it. If you ended up with solid lifters on your 2.0, be grateful. Way better.
One question, is or was the 2.2 fuel injected? if so, I think I read that the carb elec pump and the F.I. pump are different and the F.I. pump didn't work well with the carb. Again, I just read that, I haven't tried it. Someone out there probably knows about this. .
Jegs or Summit had some cheaper good pressure regulators with gauges and/or return lines.
Just did the weber swap on mine. No pressure regulator with a mechanical fuel pump. Runs good, better than stock in low and mid range. Not quite as good as stock on start up, and I saw no difference on top end. More tuning maybe. First tank of gas, so no MPG figures yet. No smog test yet.
I ended up with vacuum to the power brake, to the PCV (had to grind the adapter plate a little for the hose not to bind), to the vacuum advance on the dizzy, I used the one the instructions said, forward one on the pass (right) side. The one next to it, 1/2" to the rear (remove screw) I went from there to under the manifold to the green thermo switch, this turns on the vacuum as the motor warms up, and then to the EVAP canister.( I found small restricters in some of the original vacuum hoses and thinking of trying one on the EVAP line to smooth out and lower the RPM of the warmed up motor)
Some people say use this line for the EGR, I tried that but it ran poorly, I think it came on too fast and the motor stumbled (not sure yet). I'm thinking of tryng the vacuum port by the linkage, it looks like it is venturi only vacuum, might be better. Might be more timed or come on more slowly.
Might even be a better one for the dizzy. Well I'm still playing as you can see, but I hope this helps.