Converting from manual to electric fuel pump

The PO put an electric fuel pump between the tank and the manual pump on the camshaft, and removed the arm going to the camshaft.

I noticed the older fuel pump has three hoses: "from tank", "to tank", and "to carb." Is there any way to re-hose it such that I can removed the old fuel pump from the loop?

I also figured they left it for pressure reasons, but I'm not completely sure on that one.

Honestly: I think the previous owner left that upper part of the mechanical fuel pump there to seal up the engine.

There's no real need to use an electric fuel pump on these, except for the fuel-injected ones, the mechanical ones are reliable and provide plenty of fuel at correct fuel pressure.

I'd consider going back to mechanical fuel pump.

Well, like I said, s/he removed the arm, and if I can convert for less than a the cost of a pump...

Nevermind. I looked up the universal pump they used, and the pressure appears to be 5-9 PSI.

The arm is part of the mechanical fuel pump.

$27 and normally stocked at AutoZone

Right, I understand the arm is part of the mechanical pump. But I figured, if I can simply cap a hose somewhere and put a plate over the head opening, etc. instead of spending $27, that would be the route I take.

My research online shows that the return line to the tank is for vapor so that the fuel coming from the tank, if it happens to vaporize in the mechanical pump, will return to the tank instead of the carb, causing vapor lock.

Sounds to me like I can cap that line off at the destination (tank) and remove the old pump.

For those who search this, my last post may or may not be correct. Further research shows that the "vapor lock" theory of the return line is incorrect (but again, no proof either way).

The latest theory I read specifically states this is an "urban myth." Their theory states that this is for relieving fuel pressure after turning the engine off. 59861/

One thing I've seen across the board is some way to ensure that the electric fuel pump does not overpower the carb by being left on while the engine is off (something you obviously needn't worry about with a mechanical pump). Many suggest an oil pressure cut-off switch, but this would require the engine to turn enough during starting to build oil pressure. I don't like that idea. That'd be hell on the starter over time.

Mine's currently rigged to a run/start line from the fuse box, so this would work, except when the key is left on. I personally don't like the safety aspect, such as either going to a shop and someone leaving the key on, or in the case of a wreck, the fuel pump would continuously run possibly pumping fuel everywhere.

I'm thinking I'll try simply removing the old pump and plating off the hole in the head. I'll add a switch to the power line so by default its on when the key is, but I can turn it off even when the key's on. I'll cap off the return line, and if/when I find out this situation works, I'll cap it off back at the tank and remove the line.

I'm hoping the truck will be running in a few weeks, at which point I must start doing modifications to make it a daily driver. This will be one of the mods.