Valve train adjustment

I've got the typical ticking in my valve train that most of these trucks seem to have. The engine was just rebuilt right before I got it so I figured maybe the engine builder set the valve lash wrong. I flip open my repair manual and read up on the proper adjustment procedure. For whatever reason it reccomended retorqueing the head before doing this. Upon removing my valve cover I found that my rockers are non adjustable. Is this normal?? Why does the repair manual have info on setting adjustable lash on my motor but mine are non adjustable??

Turned out to be a good thing I retorqued the head though. I'm guessing these guys assembled the engine and never went back to retorque the head after it had a chance to get hot and cold a few times. I forgot now but I think I torqued them to 60 ft lbs or whatever the manual said the spec was and I followed the correct sequence and they were really lose. One of the back bolts was probably an entire turn to loose. I'm really not sure how this gasket wasn't leaking. Hopefully I caught it in time.

Any info on the valve lash would great. Thanks guys.

Hey there Bagged Dually seems like your head is a B2200 since they are the hydraulic self adjusting lifters. I've done the opposite took a set from a mazda 626 a B2000 engine with adjustable lifters. If your truck is a B2000 then they did the opposite of my setup. BTW my change out didn't eliminate the ticking noise. I also didn't change my cam it's still the original since day one of purchase.

The owner of a rebuilt engine must take the responsibility to ensure that the head bolts get re-torqued. Great that you did that.

Agree, likely a B2200 head and rockers were added.

Well now I'm wondering if the entire engine is a 2.2 and not just the head. This truck was built back in the early-mid 90's and was a show winner early in its life. Since than its been passed from owner to owner. Some doing good and some just tearing it up being clueless and guessing at how to do stuff.
I was talking to friend last week that said he used to know the guy that rebuilt the engine in the truck and remembered he spent a lot of time and money doing all of it.
Is there anyway for me to tell a 2.0 apart from a 2.2 and so on?? I did notice today that the timing belt cover has 2.2 molded into it. Not sure if they all say that or again if its just from a 2.2 on a 2.0.
Hopefully there's a way to tell.
Thanks guys.

I just started thinking about and remembered the 2.2's were all diesels weren't they?? As far as gas engines went I think it was the 2.0 and than the 2.6 wasn't it?

B2200 were mostly gasoline engines. Maybe someone just swapped in a B2200 engine.

Well I had that same thought but than my repair manual only showed the 2.2 as being a Diesel engine for some reason lol.
Is there anyway of telling the 2.0 and 2.2 blocks apart when it's already in the truck?? It's not worth pulling the engine part to find out but surely there's a way to tell from looking at it.

Don't hold me to this but I'm pretty sure that the 2.2 is stamped f2 and the 2.0 is stamped fe not positive tough...

Paycheck to paycheck minitrucker

Well I started another thread about my engine and after adding everything together and from all the info you guys have told me I'm going to assume this engine is a complete 2.2L that was either rebuilt and put in instead of the 2.0. Since they had to rebuild one of them anyway why not the bigger engine. Or maybe it was a crate engine but with all of the casting marks and rockers being hydraulic it just makes sense.
Anyway my question now is what all do I need parts wise and what mods if any will I need to do to get the adjustable rockers installed??
These hydraulic rockers are making a crazy amount of chatter and it doesn't stop whenever the engine warms up or ever for that matter. It seems to be getting worse the farther I drive it and its got a fresh oil change so I think this is as good as their ever going to be. I understand a little bit of noise but this is crazy. It's starting to sound like a sewing machine trying to sew 1/4" steel.
It's still running great it just has the noise.

I have a set of mechanical rocker arms for sale on this site or you can "try" to fix it by getting new lash adjusters. I replaced them all for 13 bucks a pop once. IT did not help at all. Mechanical is the only way to go.