Swapping 2.0 into B2200

I have been driving my 1987 Mazda B2000 LX for a couple of years now. I recently purchased a lowered 1987 B2200 (base model I believe), with the understanding that the 2.2L motor was in desperate need of rebuild.

My poor B2000 is in rough shape. The bed has been welded and re-welded and there's still cracks and rust everywhere. It was recently wrecked in the driver front area. The transmission is losing synchronizers one by one (reverse is gone, 4th is almost unusable, 1st is going). The driver door is missing all locking mechanisms, and the rear window lock is broke. The speedometer cable was cut by the PO when redoing the exhaust. The gas gauge works when it feels like it. Etc. etc. etc. The motor however, is in wonderful shape. I did the head gasket about a year ago, and it will hum along at 4k.

The B2200, however, in comparison is in great shape (minus the motor). I believe it simply needs the typical work of lot rot (clutch and brake work). The only small things it needs are a steering wheel and the driver's seat belt. It has already been lowered about 3 - 4", bucket seats, radio conversion, etc.

My thought is to put the 2.0L motor in the B2200. My biggest concerns:

1. Wiring harness. They are the same year, but I was unsure if there is any difference between the B2000 and B2200. I am not concerned about the motor harness; I did the Weber conversion on the 2.0L and completely removed the ECU. I'm more concerned about things like the starter, temp gauge sensor, etc. My biggest priority is using the gauge pod from my B2000 because it has a tach and the B2200 does not. Is the wire already present even if the tach is not there? Will it simply work if I swap the two gauge pods?

2. Transmission mating. Is there any difference or pitfalls to watch out for when mating a 2.0L to a 2.2L transmission? Is there any difference whatsoever?

3. Power steering. Any thoughts on this? The 2.0L has power steering and the 2.2L does not. Is it difficult to port over? Is it worth it? I've turned off my motor and coasted in the B2000 a few times and it doesn't seem to be too difficult without power steering. I have a brand new set of joints (all 10) to put on the B2200 to help aid in smoother steering.

Any help is appreciated, guys and gals.

The blocks are essentially the same, from the standpoint of bolt-ups and swaps.
I haven't found that there is anything different between the 2.0 & 2.2 wiring harnesses.
The only exception to that would be carbureted vs. EFI, but that doesn't apply here.

Hey man u should have no prob. With doing the 2.0 swap into the b2200 i puta 2.0 in my b2200 and everythong bolted up fine

I guess my only concern then would be the tach. Will the stock tach in the B2000 work in the B2200 once I plug it in?

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Bumpity bump bump

I just purchased a 1991 Mazda LE-5. It had a terrible oil leak and after cleaning all the oil off of it, I replaced the leaky camshaft seal, I discovered that at some time in this truck's life, someone had swapped the engine with a 2.0 engine. It looks pretty much identical, so I am sure there cannot be that many differences. I would do it,. if I were U.

I do notice that it has noticeably less power than my other 2.2 liter gray truck, but it is a fresh motor (1 and 1/2 years ago) bored 1.0 over.

Plans are to build me a kia sportage motor and once it is ready, the 2.2 motor from the gray truck goes into the LE-5 and the SE-5 gray truck gets the kia sprtage motor.

Go for it!!!!

and take pics!!

Oh, and you can always just unbolt the intake from the block and leave everything attached. same with the exhaust, and tieing it back out of the way with bailing wire. Then (you are replacing only the block.) This way, you do not have to worry about where to connect the 1,000 vacuum hoses.

Like this...,

I have pulled the 2.2L out. While it's out I plan to do the steering stuff (joints, power, etc.). I gotta say, I haven't seen a rotor/hub setup like the front of the Mazda's. Due to lot rot, I want to replace the rotors and pads, and possibly the calipers.

How does one remove the front rotor, and the caliper?

To me, it appears you have to use a wrench to take off the vane in the back, then take off the six bolts holding the front hub on. Then I'd be concerned about needing to re-do the bearings, etc...

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