samantha
+1y
I have an 84 B2000 with the 2.0 I drove it all day today and it worked just fine. I left it sitting for about 2 hours and when I got back in it to go home it was kinda hard to put into gear and shift between the gears. As I was driving the more times I had to shift between gears the harder it got to go into a gear eventually it got to the point where I had to push really hard just to get it into first gear. The clutch peddle does feel a little softer than it normally does, I'm not really sure whats up with it but tomorrow I'm going to put it up on the lift to see whats going on. Any ideas on what this could be?
Cusser
+1y
OMG - a gal on this board, we don't get too many here !!!
I don't have direct experience with a B2000, but your symptoms sound like the issue is with the clutch hydraulics, like a leak in the clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder. These are common areas of failure on the 1986-1993 models.
When hydraulic fluid (clutch fluid is same as brake fluid) leaks out, air gets in, and air compresses while clutch fluid doesn't when the pedal is pressed, so the clutch release arm on the transmission doesn't travel as far as it should, so the clutch disc doesn't release completely. Most likely your issue is related to this,
Most often, just checking the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level and bleeding the clutch system will only provide a very temporary fix.
I'd recommend replacing both cylinders, bench-bleed the clutch master, and then bleed all the old fluid out through the fitting on the clutch slave cylinder. This is about a 1 hour job, need a helper to push the pedal to bleed the system.
I don't have direct experience with a B2000, but your symptoms sound like the issue is with the clutch hydraulics, like a leak in the clutch master cylinder and/or clutch slave cylinder. These are common areas of failure on the 1986-1993 models.
When hydraulic fluid (clutch fluid is same as brake fluid) leaks out, air gets in, and air compresses while clutch fluid doesn't when the pedal is pressed, so the clutch release arm on the transmission doesn't travel as far as it should, so the clutch disc doesn't release completely. Most likely your issue is related to this,
Most often, just checking the clutch master cylinder reservoir fluid level and bleeding the clutch system will only provide a very temporary fix.
I'd recommend replacing both cylinders, bench-bleed the clutch master, and then bleed all the old fluid out through the fitting on the clutch slave cylinder. This is about a 1 hour job, need a helper to push the pedal to bleed the system.
himynameischance
+1y
I'm having this same issue on my 92 b22. Thanks for the assistance from me too Cusser. Any advice on parts? I have an autozone at home. How are their parts for quality? Both are duralast.
Cusser
+1y
Samantha - also don't overlook that one of the flexible lines between clutch master and clutch slave could be leaking. My 1988 B2200 has two such flexible lines, and I replaced one due to a leak at the crimp about two years ago.
Great question about clutch hydraulic parts. My experience, in 19 years on my 1988 B2200: I've had both of these go out several times, but had free warranty replacements (CarQuest). For whatever reason, mostly because I bought originally from a place that got taken over by CarQuest, I was told that the last replacements would be my last free replacements. Those were from several suppliers over the years, too, including Wagner, can't say if any suppliers stuff was better than others, and could be same part in different boxes too. All were new and not rebuilt (I wouldn't waste my time rebuilding your own cylinders either, even if you can find kits).
I've been like four years on current clutch master and clutch slave, and I typically replaced both at same time since I had that lifetime warranty. So what would I do if mine went out today? I'd likely try the AutoZone Duralast, I've used other Duralast stuff from them and been OK, and lifetime warranty and local for me too. I might try NAPA if their stuff was lifetime warrantied as well.
About the only alternative I'd try personally might be factory stuff, but my guess is expensive and no lifetime warranty, "theoretically" those should be high quality. should be able to supply those (have VIN number) or special order through local Mazda dealer.
Great question about clutch hydraulic parts. My experience, in 19 years on my 1988 B2200: I've had both of these go out several times, but had free warranty replacements (CarQuest). For whatever reason, mostly because I bought originally from a place that got taken over by CarQuest, I was told that the last replacements would be my last free replacements. Those were from several suppliers over the years, too, including Wagner, can't say if any suppliers stuff was better than others, and could be same part in different boxes too. All were new and not rebuilt (I wouldn't waste my time rebuilding your own cylinders either, even if you can find kits).
I've been like four years on current clutch master and clutch slave, and I typically replaced both at same time since I had that lifetime warranty. So what would I do if mine went out today? I'd likely try the AutoZone Duralast, I've used other Duralast stuff from them and been OK, and lifetime warranty and local for me too. I might try NAPA if their stuff was lifetime warrantied as well.
About the only alternative I'd try personally might be factory stuff, but my guess is expensive and no lifetime warranty, "theoretically" those should be high quality. should be able to supply those (have VIN number) or special order through local Mazda dealer.
samantha
+1y
So I checked the reservoir this morning and it's bone dry, I'm glad it's going to be an easy fix I really wasn't looking forward to doing the clutch on this thing which is what I thought it was. I love this little truck and how easy it is to work on
Cusser
+1y
Yeah, the fluid can also leak out the rear of the clutch master cylinder into the cab, so not always so easy to determine where the leak is. Visually check the level through the reservor wall maybe every two months, or when you check the oil. You wouldn't have saved anything, just got to it sooner as you saw the level drop.
Samantha - post of photo of yourself so we know who we're talking to. Or post a photo of someone else.
Yeah, the fluid can also leak out the rear of the clutch master cylinder into the cab, so not always so easy to determine where the leak is. Visually check the level through the reservor wall maybe every two months, or when you check the oil. You wouldn't have saved anything, just got to it sooner as you saw the level drop.
Samantha - post of photo of yourself so we know who we're talking to. Or post a photo of someone else.
samantha
+1y
Me with the B2000 on the lift, as soon as I refilled the reservoir I could shift again I just have to bleed the system now
jenko
+1y
That's an excellent selfie!
Ute on a hoist in the background = winning
Cusser, you never asked me for a photo
Or did you already have one
Anyway, welcome to the forum, it's full of helpful people like Cusser... though he is a standout
Ute on a hoist in the background = winning
Cusser, you never asked me for a photo
Or did you already have one
Anyway, welcome to the forum, it's full of helpful people like Cusser... though he is a standout
Cusser
+1y
Samantha - you have a hoist??? Wow !!! Even if it's only one you can "borrow".
Sounds like the clutch cylinders R&R went relatively smoothly.
Jenko - I figured that a photo of you would be upside-down, considering that you're in New Zealand !!! Tough enough with Samantha's photo sideways.
Sounds like the clutch cylinders R&R went relatively smoothly.
Jenko - I figured that a photo of you would be upside-down, considering that you're in New Zealand !!! Tough enough with Samantha's photo sideways.